Trojan Boat Forum

I prefer to use caulk on either clean wood, or epoxied wood. The order for me is; Stain, seal with CPES, caulk, then finish.

Hey RWS,

I am still gathering info for you for the site. John Leed has been busy for the last few months, but said he would send me everything he has when he gets into his new building.

For caulking, I use the 3m products, 4000 UV, 4200, and 5200. For your keel, I would go with 5200. Just understand that it is considered permanent. The product has to be used on sturdy, clean wood. Again, if I was going to do it, I would ensure I has solid, clean, sanded seams. I would prime it with...

I'm a big fan of the Smith's epoxy products, especially their clear penetrating epoxy (CPES) on my wooden boat. Their epoxy resins are wood based, and remain flexible. I prepped my bottom with enouph coats of CPES on a bare wood hull until the wood wouldn't absorb any more epoxy. Then, while the epo...

I'm not sure how many were built. They were more expensive and less popular than the 10 and 10.8 convertible. They are a great boat. They came from the factory with Detroit's as an option. The 6v92 with 485 HP engines was suppose to be one of the fastest Internationals produced. I think the 1990 was...

Troy-Sodus Point wrote: I did not use trim tabs as one of them had a leaking hydraulic line.

I think your trim tabs being inoperable will be a big impact on your ability to get on plane.

Here are the serial numbers for the tranny's: Port-98530 Starboard-10021, sorry I do not have any pics of these. The survey also has these props at 14x10 the owner states they are 14x12. When running at 3000 rpm the we were having issues with the onboard GPS (antennea issue, was resolved afterwords...

I will humbly disagree. You guys have already determined that there is a prop issue without going to WOT, so that theory is bunk. And thanks for reading thoroughly because you all took it wrong. I mentioned all the other issues OTHER than his prop/tranny issue were average complaints for a 40 year ...

Thanks, Todd. That was what I was assuming, but the manual doesn't have a true mechanical drawing of the hull, and, when I was flushing the bilge, I put enough water in that I thought the mid pump should have activated, but it never did. Hey, no problem. Your boat volume is quite large, significant...

If its like mine, they are not isolated. The boat sits bow low while at rest, so the water tends to move forward when the boat sits. My middle bilge area rarely has water, but the water passes through the area when moving. If your middle pump activates you should be nervous, as you probably have lot...

You need to be able to get to the manufactures wot to ensure you are properly propped. If you can't reach it, it's a sign something is wrong. In this case, it may be more than improper prop. Everyone should know, and occasionally go to wot to see if everything is running right, or if your bottom nee...

Tough choice, but sentimental does not constitute logical. My opinion, pay for a good surveyor to see what needs to be done right away. Engine hours really mean little, as an engine that sits is worse than one that runs often. And, if you don't LOVE the boat, sell it.

Hey Rick, Would you be able to do me a big favor??? I am looking for some info on your particular vessel. Would you be able to take a look at your stringer system and maybe take some photo's. The Trojan 370 is derived from the 10.8 Express, but Carver changed the stinger system and modified the hull...

Drop fins...that's the technical term...

I second digging out all the rot, and then cpes the existing, and then fill with a scarfed piece or use some of Smith's building epoxy. You can certainly reinforce it with aluminum. And, FYI, you're doing a great job. I love to see Trojans brought back to life by capable people.