Trojan Boat Forum

HI,

Here's a list of things I have found on a boat I bought last October. It is now back in the water and I have some questions. I have to sail the boat back to my local area (approx. 400 miles of lakes, rivers and locks) in two weeks. I need to figure out what I need to do and what can wait until I get it back to local, its 5.5 hours by car so I'm hoping to do the majority once i return. I also want to reduce (as much as possible) the risk of running into any issues on the trip.

I have replaced both impellers they were both in bad shape (no missing teeth though) just deformed and the port backing plate needed to be replaced. I ran the boat for about two hours below is what i found. It actually went in the water about 10 days ago.

1. One of the drive shafts is leaking pretty bad, its dripping but faster than i can count them when at 12 knots it is still leaking a very light stream because of the rotation but not excessive. the other (port) drive shaft does not leak at all ?

2. I have to replace the rear bilge pump the forward works manually. Whats the most acceptable way to test the auto switch (which i have not found yet). I can put some bio bilge clean and add water until the bilge pump starts ?

3. The port manifold on the starboard engine leaks water at the junction between the main manifold that's connected to the cylinder head and the first part of the exhaust U curve but only at speeds 10+ knots.

4. What temp should i expect at the top of exhaust manifolds when running at around 12 knots, i have a varied range between the four manifolds of between high 40's-and low 60's?

5. The port transmission makes a strange and some what unhealthy sounding knocking noise when in gear at idle. The noise seems to go away seemingly completely at as i accelerate and at speed does not seem to make any noise? the starboard transmission does not make any noise ? (there oil in the port transmission was very low when I checked it before heading out ? the start board was also lower but not so bad ?) Ive read the sound is normal or may be due to a rough running engine?

Is there anything else I should check for ? I did the f32 check list from one of the posts here and the rest "seems" good and other than the above everything seems to work as designed and is in good shape.

Thanks for the help

Juat another note,

I have read that the transmission noise may be due to a failed cylinder and the port engine does not idle as smoothly as the starboard, i will try to do a tune up on the port engine or both this weekend.

Also the port engine water temperature is not working i figure its the sensor or electrical near the engine as both helms report the same problem. I have been measuring engine temp with an infrared temp sensor and both run at around the same temp other than the manifold temp being higher.

A engine miss can cause a trans rattle . are your temp reading in F or C ?

The riser leak is a concern. If it is leaking outside, it could be leaking inside. If it leaks inside the dry exhaust area, you can flood your cylinders and hydrolock your engine. It would be wise to pull the riser, check the faces out, and at least replace the gasket. It's $20 of insurance if that's all it is.

Hi,

@oil&water: i checked the leak with a mechanic on the weekend while running and it looks like the water is coming from the drain plugs on the bottom of the riser. he mentioned the threads corrode over time, I will remove them and put teflon tape and plumbers dope on the plugs and retest. If there is still water i will do as you say.

Another find was a small bump on the port side riser of the port side engine and it feels like the corrosion is bursting outward. I would believe i need to change this before it bursts. I need find a new one or used any ideas?

@prowlersfish: They are in C, I have booked a tune up with the local marina for Wednesday next week. I had the boat out for 3 hours on Monday and the rattles is none existent and even very low now at idle.

Hi,

@oil&water: i checked the leak with a mechanic on the weekend while running and it looks like the water is coming from the drain plugs on the bottom of the riser. he mentioned the threads corrode over time, I will remove them and put teflon tape and plumbers dope on the plugs and retest. If there is still water i will do as you say.

Another find was a small bump on the port side riser of the port side engine and it feels like the corrosion is bursting outward. I would believe i need to change this before it bursts. I need find a new one or used any ideas?

@prowlersfish: They are in C, I have booked a tune up with the local marina for Wednesday next week. I had the boat out for 3 hours on Monday and the rattles is none existent and even very low now at idle.

If there is a bump that looks like corrosion, you need to inspect it before running again. If it is truly corrosion, you should pull the manifolds and risers and replace unless they look new or close to it. You should buy new risers and manifolds, not used ones.

It is a LOT more expensive to replace the manifolds and risers if you wait too long. Think total engine rebuild or replacement!

Agreed,

is there a place that still sells new risers ? One of the risers does look new but not the one that is corroded.

this might be getting of topic but is there any different between Mallory and Sierra parts where this is concerned Mallory is cheaper but only by 5 bucks.

Also if I'm going to do 1 is it better to do them both on the same engine?

The newish looking one is on the other engine.

I'm just placing the order for two risers (CM-20-4142411) and mounting kits from MarineEngine.

I'm sure that order was slightly painful to the wallet, but will make you feel so much better than wondering when the other foot was going to drop.

I got lucky, the manifolds on my 460's were part of the fresh water system and the risers look really good for saltwater use. Then again, I don't think the engines have more than a couple hundred hours since they were replaced.

Check your two stern stringers in the center at the stern. Both WayWeGo and I had some very slight stringer rot from the transom forward one foot on the center port side stringer. Weird location, but we were both glad we found it and addressed it sooner than later.

It's a pain in the a$$ to get to, but if your rear deck is wood, check the area between the end of the floor and the transom. It will be behind the transom trim panel. Debris gets stuck back there and causes rot.

Yeh cost me about $900 for the pair plus mounting hardware and includes $200 in shipping as i wanted it 2 day shipping so i can install everything and test it before the tune up on Wednesday, we plan to start the journey back on the following Monday.

As for the stringers ill send some pics this weekend.

for sure the rear deck it is wood, i did remove the rear trim panels and the floor looked good. The hinge on the starboard side floor storage door is completely loose the screws are turning in mush so for sure the area where the hinges are connected is shot but the deck itself feels quite solid.

I took a point screw driver and its soft only back a couple of inches so I'm hoping if i remove the bulkheads in the rear cabin out over winter i will be able to get in and fix everything from the inside and then seal the storage doors so no more water gets in.

This is a completely stupid question and I'm sure is covered in other posts/topics. how (if one desired to do so) do i rebuild the engines (in place?).

I might put the boat in my barn for the winter and take care of all this stuff and if i do i might rebuild the engines at the same time ?????

The boat got a good survey other than the back deck and really like her so other than small trim and misc stuff shes in good shape.

with the engines moved forward or at least out of the way a bit and the bulk heads gone i might be able to work, can the engines be removed (with out a can opener). This is of topic so i don't want to hijack my own thread.

Robin

Is this a Tri-Cabin? If so Barrie or some of the other Tri owners will be able to render much better advise.

Updated... never mind I answered my own question. Guess I should have read the other thread first.

My Trojan is the Tri Fly, with the engines aft under the bunks.
Being all the way back there they were super easy to remove and install...lol. Only after removing the whole cockpit.
One of the engines I did drop in a rebuilt short block and then complete the engine in place. Putting on the oil pickup, oil pan, oil pump and heat exchangers while suspended
Then I bolted it to the transmission and installed cam, heads, intake and accessories.
I think if you had a short block wrapped and with oil pickup and pan off, a couple guys could carry it into the salon

Holly crap....,

Well that's a winter project.....

So I removed the offending riser..... The corrosion is quick extensive. My plumbing cam just broke so not able to see if there was any perforation through the exhaust wall.

Sorry for the crappy pics.