Trojan Boat Forum

I have a 1977 Trojan F30 Express, and have some question on normal operations, and possible upgrades.

Here is the situation I have now. I installed a new faucet in galley, and ran a new water line directly from 12V pump which is located right next to large aluminum water tank. To run faucet, I must turn on an electric switch located near galley faucet. New faucet works great, with REALLY strong flow. This is due to a much shorter run of tubing, and a slightly larger tubing diameter.

Here are some questions.
1) if i leave pump switch on and turn off faucet, the pump pulsates, and makes noise, and does not seem happy. Is it normal on my vintage boat to always use switch for water, and only have it on when ready to turn on faucet?
2) is there an alternative set up that would eliminate the switch, and have the faucet work like in a home?
3) my tank being 40 years old, is there a good way to flush it, clean it?
4) now lets say i want to plumb up my bathroom faucet. do i have to go to the galley to turn on pump for water to flow in bathroom? would I hook up another switch in bathroom, and how would this be wired? (and same issue if i want to add a deck hose outlet to washing off deck or after swimming.)

In summary, what is the slickest, cleanest way to set up my water needs on a 1977 vintage Trojan 30 footer

thanks!!

Svend

You may not have an original setup, as back in the 70's I think the water tanks were all fiberglass. If yours is aluminum, it may be a retrofit.

Normally the switch for the fresh water pump is on the helm console somewhere, away from a water source. Seems strange that yours would be where you say it is (or did you put it in?). Switch should be able to stay on at all times. On my F32 it is on all summer and when I leave the boat I turn the battery switch off. I only turn the fresh water pump switch off when the tank is empty, like through the winter, so I can still turn the batteries on without burning the pump out.

Normally if it pulsates when no water is in use it means one of 2 things : leak in the pipes somewhere so pressure is dropping so pump pulsates to repressurize, or pump impeller or diaphragm issue - once the system is pressurized water is flowing backwards through the pump and back to the tank, again resulting in loss of pressure and the pulsating to repressurise.

Start with the simple one of checking the system for leaks (or is the faucet dripping?). If that doesn't show anything, consider pump rebuild or replacement.

What kind of pump is it? Most freshwater pumps have a pressure switch mounted on them that automatically turns them off when the correct pressure is reached. It sounds to me like your pump is not turning off at all, which likely means a bad pressure switch. Also, your diagram is not showing a pressure accumulator tank, do you have one? With an accumulator tank and properly functioning pressure switch, you can leave the pump on at all times and it will operate just like at home.

There are several kinds of water tank treatment cleaners/deoderizers that can be used to clean the tank, as well as additives to keep the water from developing a bad smell.

After you get that first faucet operating correctly, you can add the others and they will work the same way, leaving the pump switch on.

great ideas and help... thanks! Attached is a picture of my pump. It looks like it has pressure switch on one end?!

this pump looks to me made in 2000, so it is not original by a long shot.

@ Liberdade: I think you were right... I had a slight leak in fittings that was letting air and water in/out. Once I tightened everything up , it worked like you said... turn on switch and leave it on. Thanks for your guys help!!

Svend

An accumulator will also add a small amount of water capacity, but the biggest advantage is that the pump doesn't turn on every time you open a fixture. Great news if the pump is under your bed and someone flushes the head in the middle of the night....

Ahoy,

I have a 78 F30.

Your water set up is identical to mine and I also have an aluminum tank. That upright contraption looks like a winterizing device jerry rig. I would remove it.

The pump may nearing its end of useful life. Once the switch on galley is pulled, pump comes on pulsates and then shuts off.

Like others said, if it don’t shut off, that is an indication of a water or air leak.

I would not add an accumulator tank. Or system is small and new pumps have more power.

So water comes from water pump to dinette and then splits with one going to hot water tank and remaining cold going and splitting again to go to each faucet.

Such a royal pain to find fittings. I switched everything to brass compression fittings.

Did you have a problem with the hot water hose going to the galley? That hose is slightly smaller than all of the other ones.