Trojan Splash Rail - what wood type is it ?

mpulsev10 · Post by **mpulsev10** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:17 pm

I have a 1979 Trojan F36, the outer splash rail on the rear of the boat has some rotten wood i would like to have replaced. What type of wood should i use? Also can i get preformed stainless for the trim? thanks.

Dan Faith · Post by **Dan Faith** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:41 pm

To answer both your posts, I replaced the splash rails on my 30' Sportfisherman this year and I used white oak. Two years ago I replaced the wood on my F32 the ol was 1/2" plywood and I replaced with same of marine grade. If yours are 2" thick solid wood I would use white oak in that area also.

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 2:43 pm

Trojan used mahogany for the splash rail on the F36. It holds paint well and machines easily. White oak would work well, but it is more difficult to machine since it is harder.

The stainless steel does not come preformed, but is easily bent. Use a grinder to form the points on each end.

I replaced the splash rail on my F36. You will find that the rail is hold on with carrage bolts. There are also screws screwed from inside the hull. I had to cut the piece of plywood that is the cover for one of the vents to get to some of the screws. Once the new splash rail was secured, I pieced the plywood back in.

If you look back in the earlier posts, you will find a more detailed description I wrote about replacing the splash rail.

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I replaced the splash rail on my F36. I did it several years ago so memory may be a bit fuzzy.

I wouldn't use cedar, it's too soft. White oak would work, but it very hard and difficult to shape. I used what Trojan used, Mahogany.

The splash rail is through bolted and screwed from the inside. Remove the stainless rub rail from the splash rail. Once itâ€™s off you will be able to see where the carriage bolts are located. I donâ€™t remember exactly how many there are, but I would think there are 4-6 bolts. (If the location of the carriage bolts is not obvious sand some paint off the edge of the splash rail to expose the filler.) Once you know where the bolts are located you will know where to look for nuts in the bilge. Between the bolts there are screws, screwed from inside the bilge, holding the splash rail. In order to gain access to some of the screws the plywood on the air intake vent will have to be removed. I used a saw to cut the plywood and pieced it back after the splash rail was re-installed. (I reused the carriage bolts, but used new screws.)

Once the splash rail was removed, I used it as a template to get the shape and the location of the carriage bolts. The carriage bolts make installing the new splash rail easy. The holes in the hull were over size so the bolts slide right through. (I applied a good bead of Boatlife caulk to the back of the splash rail before I installed it. (If you use 3Mâ€™s 5200 it will make removal difficult.) Once the bolts are tightened, you can put the screws in to finish securing the rail. After cleaning the caulk that oozed out, I used fiberglass bondo to fill bolt holes. After sanding and painting I re-installed the stainless rub rail.

mpulsev10 · Post by **mpulsev10** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 3:49 pm

thanks !

has anyone removed the splash rail and just filled in the holes and put on a new boot stripe ? One of my marine guys said it would be much easier.

thanks again.

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 3:56 pm

If Tojan didn't think they were needed they wouldn't have put them on!

hmc · Post by **hmc** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 4:27 pm

mahogany BUT OAK WOUL BE OK ( KEY BOARD ON ORDER EBAY 99 CENTS ) (24.99 SHIPPING )

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Fri Jul 17, 2009 6:07 pm

Mahogany , I know one person that removed his and had no regets . If I dont sell mine and paint my hull they will be gone , trojan is not always right.

Dan Faith · Post by **Dan Faith** » Sat Jul 18, 2009 6:58 am

The reson I replaced the splash rail on the 30' is the hull shape, this is where the fenders rest. My 32' has a different shape and it does not have a splash rail. I used oak because it is harder and rot resistant. If you use oak you would want to drill the bolt holes amount the rail in order to mark the screw holes. remove then predrill the screw holes (oak is to hard to put a screw in without a pilot hole). I even put the screws in once with an electric screw driver to make it easier when in place, there is not much room on the 30' to work in. You can also place a little wax on the screw to make it easier to install. I have about 16 hours with two of use for the job.