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Does anyone recognize this? It's developed a drip (see arrow for location) and I'm thinking that's not good. Can't find any info on who makes it or how to repair it. Can I just tighten it until it quits dripping? Just discovered that the waterline from the exhaust manifold was plugged on both engines... That's now repaired. Someone tell me something good!
Thanks in advance.....
Last edited by 7421f on Wed Aug 08, 2012 12:41 am, edited 2 times in total.
Tim
1984 Trojan 11 Meter Express "My Vixen"
Big Blue 454's
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
nor my PSS seals from PYI. Assuming all of the dripless seals work the same using highly polished seal faces, tightening a nut down does not have an affect like regular packing gland. According to PSS any speed over 12 mph requires the water lubrication from manifolds. Under 12 such as a sail boat the outside water will lubricate as there is not vacum void where the shaft exits the hull.
According to your prologue you discovered no water flow, ergo, the seal might have given its all.
Last edited by larryeddington on Tue Aug 07, 2012 6:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Larry Eddington
1984 F-36 Tri Cabin "The Phoenix II"
1978 F-28 "The Phoenix"
Fish Master 2350 Bay Boat
9.5' Dink
Where specifically is the drip? Put an arrow or scribe on your picture for me. If you're speaking of the inlet line where it threads into the shaft collar, mine were so corroded I drilled them out, retapped , and plumbed with a copper straight and elbow fitting onto the line because I couldn't find the single 45 that was on there.
The water feed is to lubricate the gland but I don't think it's a dripless system given that it has an adjustable packing gland nut. There's probably flax packing in there. If it hasn't been replaced in a while that you know of, pull the nut back and check/replace the packing. The nut is tightened 1/4 turn at a time 'till the holes in the nut and tube line up for inserting the locking cotter pin. Don't tighten too much or you'll overheat the shaft, and given that it I don't think it's a dripless system, a little dripping is normal.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
that's a pretty odd set up. i've never seen anything like that before. although, my friends silverton has a double bolt system instead of the lock nuts.
1982 F-36 TRI CABIN ENTERPRISE
PARKSIDE MARINA IN MIDDLE RIVER, MD aaronbocknek@gmail.com
Thanks to all for the valuable input. It was NOT a drip less seal. It does take 1/4" packing. Not too bad of a job under the tutelage of a seasoned DIY boater. Not a lot of water intrusion, but, some time under a previous owner's watch, the other shaft seal had been cross threaded. Of course, the damage is inside the nut. I can only get 3 threads deep and still have about a drip a second. Ideas??
Last edited by 7421f on Mon Aug 13, 2012 10:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
Tim
1984 Trojan 11 Meter Express "My Vixen"
Big Blue 454's
What type of packing did you use?
When you cut it to length, did you use a new razor blade and cut the packing straight or on an angle? I have always found that I have better results cutting both ends on a taper so they fit together.
A few years ago I switched to GFO packing and now I would never use anything else.
That is odd about only going on 3 threads. You would think that if it was cross threaded it would not even go on that far.
Are you able to get in there at all and clean up the threads?
I used PTFE Flax Shaft Packing and did use 3 new razor blades, one for each cut. That stuff is tough. For sure cut it at a 45 angle.
I cleaned up the external threads as best I could with a wire brush. Very hard to get to the internal nut threads. I used a 90 angled pick to clean. Tried to thread it back on without the packing and could only get 3 threads deep. I was afraid that with the amount of force I was having to use that I would really strip it out if I continued to force it.
Water is dripping from the threads, not the stuffing end. I am considering removing the transmission so I can remove the nut and attempt thread repair.without hauling the boat and pulling the shaft.
Last edited by 7421f on Mon Aug 13, 2012 10:58 am, edited 1 time in total.
Tim
1984 Trojan 11 Meter Express "My Vixen"
Big Blue 454's
It sounds like you did everything right.
Unfortunately it sounds like some work ahead of you but it can be done in the water.
Getting the flange off the end of the shaft is not fun but it does come off.
You have v-drives in an 11 Meter?
Direct drives Drives... sorry. I spoke with Bob at Beacon Marine this morning and found out that the packing nut is available should I need one. I may just run it under a watchful eye until the season is over. (it's short here) then tackle it when I would not otherwise use the boat. He is a wealth of information! I understand that I'm likely in for a bit of a struggle to get that coupler off. I sprayed them both with PB Blaster hoping that will help some.
Thanks to all for the information. This is a great site and makes owning a Trojan much easier and enjoyable.
Tim
1984 Trojan 11 Meter Express "My Vixen"
Big Blue 454's
7421f wrote:Thanks to all for the valuable input. It was NOT a drip less seal. It does take 1/4" packing. Not too bad of a job under the tutelage of a seasoned DIY boater. Not a lot of water intrusion, but, some under a previous owner's watch, the other shaft seal had been cross threaded. Of course, the damage is inside the nut. I can only get 3 threads deep and still have about a drip a second. Ideas??
everything I have ever read and seen was 1 drip per close to 8 seconds
jefflaw35 wrote:everything I have ever read and seen was 1 drip per close to 8 seconds
You will find a zillion posts and opinions on the right drip rate - anywhere from 1-2 to way more per minute. Bottom line, you want enough water coming through the seal that the stuffing box doesn't get really hot when running, but doesn't leak 'too much' when stopped. If you run hot at any given drip rate, you are too tight. If you can touch things without pain / burning yourself, you are probably okay (else loosen it off a bit). If you drip every second or have an actual FLOW through the stuffing box, you are too lose (or need to repack).
jefflaw35 wrote:everything I have ever read and seen was 1 drip per close to 8 seconds
You will find a zillion posts and opinions on the right drip rate - anywhere from 1-2 to way more per minute. Bottom line, you want enough water coming through the seal that the stuffing box doesn't get really hot when running, but doesn't leak 'too much' when stopped. If you run hot at any given drip rate, you are too tight. If you can touch things without pain / burning yourself, you are probably okay (else loosen it off a bit). If you drip every second or have an actual FLOW through the stuffing box, you are too lose (or need to repack).
Every boat is different.
good info, thanks Capt M nobody has said that me. I appreciate the info
I deff have seen many different readings
