Trojan Boat Forum

while on the hard, the vessel next to her burned

the curved plexi window would be the hardest item to replace

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261698385411?fo ... SS:US:3160

RWS

I would be sick. It looks like the boat was in great shape. I hope someone saves her.

That gel looks pretty badly blistered on the port side. Shame. Probably a decent parts boat now.

It'll buff out...

I bought the boat. The damage was only on the surface and did not affect the structural rigidity at all. Mechanically its in top shape. I had it dropped at a paint and fiberglass facility this week and pulled the cockpit interior yesterday. Glass repair starts Monday.

Cockpit interior gets to the upholstery shop this week as well as the cabin cushions. My granite guy is heading out there this week for the counters. And lastly the cockpit and cabin flooring should be decided on and ordered this week.

I am going to refinish her and keep her going. My search for the curved port side windshield window has begun and I will contact some glass repair places tomorrow.

I will likely have to start a thread, but any ideas on how to remove the teak on the transom and gunwall? Do I have to
drill out the teak screw plugs or is there a trick from the underside? The wood is gorgeous but is in need of a complete strip and refinish, its has years of oil build up.

much easier to strip and refinish the teak while it is in place.

Congrats on your new boat!

RWS

Check the old post in this forum. I think one of the members made a form to make the curved window. You can also check with Beacon Marine.

Jhalb, thank you for the reminder! I seen that post last week, but it slipped my mind.

RWS, with the boat in paint now its a good time to pull it if I i can because it gives me 3 weeks at least to work on it. I'm worried that after paint I could harm the paint on the boat while sanding and stripping even if I tape it off.

brandonwbn wrote:I bought the boat.

I will likely have to start a thread, but any ideas on how to remove the teak on the transom and gunwall? Do I have to
drill out the teak screw plugs or is there a trick from the underside? The wood is gorgeous but is in need of a complete strip and refinish, its has years of oil build up.

I had the same idea on a 10 Meter that I owned years ago.
After pulling out all of the plugs and screws, I realized the teak is also glued down. And they did a very good job glueing it down as it would not budge at all no matter what we tried. I ended up having to finish it in place.
Save yourself a lot of time and trouble and just finish it in place as I don't think there is anyway to remove the teak without damaging it.
Good luck with your project. They are awesome boats and worth the work.

Jerry wrote:

brandonwbn wrote:I bought the boat.

I will likely have to start a thread, but any ideas on how to remove the teak on the transom and gunwall? Do I have to
drill out the teak screw plugs or is there a trick from the underside? The wood is gorgeous but is in need of a complete strip and refinish, its has years of oil build up.

I had the same idea on a 10 Meter that I owned years ago.
After pulling out all of the plugs and screws, I realized the teak is also glued down. And they did a very good job glueing it down as it would not budge at all no matter what we tried. I ended up having to finish it in place.
Save yourself a lot of time and trouble and just finish it in place as I don't think there is anyway to remove the teak without damaging it.
Good luck with your project. They are awesome boats and worth the work.

======================================================

I STRONGLY suggest leaving the teak in place.

In addition to the above reasons that section is many pieces of teak, fitted together by Amish craftsmen.

It would be difficult to put that puzzle back together as nice as you found it.

Cetol can be your friend.

RWS

Thanks guys for the input, I will just have to ensure that I take the time to protect the refinished surfaces of the hull and leave the wood intact to sand and stain. The drilling out of the plugs doesn't scare as much as the adhesive does. I foresee the wood getting damaged trying to pull it off.

Also I found a glass shop here that will make a new window for the windshield for $450. They will reverse engineer the old one using the track and the old window since the edges of it were not damaged, because they were preserved from the track.

RWS, Since its the same year as, your 10M are there any tips, trick or items to watch for on it? Also would you happen to have an old canvass that I could buy from you for my upholstery lady to make a new one for me? The fire melted the eisenglass inserts the previous owner had made and they subsequently threw it out. If not do you know any one who may. I'm willing to buy it and return it as long as whoever's it is refunds me when I send it back.

let's see if this will post

RWS

nope - it's a pdf

Anyone know how to post a pdf?

PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send it to you

RWS wrote:let's see if this will post

RWS

nope - it's a pdf

Anyone know how to post a pdf?

PM me with your e-mail address and I'll send it to you

I sent it to you

Here's a photo of her on new years eve.

Ok guys, so I was out of town for the rest of January but my fiberglass and paint guy has been moving along. Here is a link to the images of what has been completed to date. The shop is cramped so a whole boat photo is impossible right now but this will give you a great idea of where I'm going with it. I will upload before interior pics tomorrow, since I'm pulling the cushions tomorrow and sending them to the upholstery shop.

[url]http://imgur.com/a/vrtTF[/urlI'