Seacock Replacement
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Seacock Replacement
Again a perfect weekend at the marina. I work the whole day Saturday to end the day with a little fire and a JT accompanied by surrounding boaters. All in all just a fantastic time...
As mentioned in a previous thread I have started replacing all of the through hulls and seacocks below the water line. I thought I would post the progress and ask a few questions while at it.
First I removed the engine raw water seacocks. One was loose but as it turned out was the most difficult to remove The backing plywood plates were a joke to remove. All of 10 minutes.
Here is the starboard: And the backing plate: Then for the post side:
As mentioned in a previous thread I have started replacing all of the through hulls and seacocks below the water line. I thought I would post the progress and ask a few questions while at it.
First I removed the engine raw water seacocks. One was loose but as it turned out was the most difficult to remove The backing plywood plates were a joke to remove. All of 10 minutes.
Here is the starboard: And the backing plate: Then for the post side:
Re: Seacock Replacement
And the backing plate:
I then tackled the mysterious plug...
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I then went on to an orphan seacock that was not attached to anything. I believe it was originally for the AC unit:
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Finally, I hit the raw water for the Genset:
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I found this yellow plate in the generator room! Does anyone else have this?
I should mention again that it is in a 1976 Tri-Fly.
I still have 2 others to remove in the port lazarette. Not sure what they are for yet as I have not looked at it closely.
and a last one that I can't seem to find. It is on the port side 3 feet in front of the V-Dive inlets. It looks like the access is through the aft head floor... Any ideas hot to access this one?I should mention again that it is in a 1976 Tri-Fly.
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Here is the new hardware for the engine raw water seacocks. You can see the G-11 sheet in the background. Very similar to G-10...
All proper silicon bronze hardware and this big a## hole saw
All proper silicon bronze hardware and this big a## hole saw
Re: Seacock Replacement
The yellow plate may be a Documentation #. You can check to see if it was documented and the vessel name at
http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/st1/CoastGu ... yName.html
http://www.st.nmfs.noaa.gov/st1/CoastGu ... yName.html
1981 10 meter Trojan International
Re: Seacock Replacement
Sweet! You were right. I found it. What would be the purpose of this?
- ready123
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Re: Seacock Replacement
Documented boats must have the number physically attached to the inside of the boat. If the boat is no longer documented it should have been removed.Christian wrote:Sweet! You were right. I found it. What would be the purpose of this?
Michael
Rum is the reason Pirate's have never ruled the world
Done Dreamin'
1987 President 43' Twin Lehman 225SP Turbo
Highfield 310 Ally 15 HP Yamaha 2cycle
1978 F32 Sedan twin 318 Chry SOLD
Safe Cove Marina, Port Charlotte, FL
Rum is the reason Pirate's have never ruled the world
Done Dreamin'
1987 President 43' Twin Lehman 225SP Turbo
Highfield 310 Ally 15 HP Yamaha 2cycle
1978 F32 Sedan twin 318 Chry SOLD
Safe Cove Marina, Port Charlotte, FL
Re: Seacock Replacement
It does not need to be removed. In fact, the coast guard states that document number be affixed in a way that they can NOT be easily removed. If you ever decide to re-doc your vessel, it may be easier to renew the expired doc than start all over with a new doc.
Re: Seacock Replacement
Thanks a bunch guys! Much appreciated.
I started cutting the fiberglass plate the big hole saw. Well that was a fail. I was not able to go through the whole thickness before to saw wore out this stuff is hard as a rock. I don't think it was a bi-metal hole saw. Now I have to figure out another way or get a better one. Will see. I will post a picture of the setup to cut the plates tonight.
Cheers,
Christian
I started cutting the fiberglass plate the big hole saw. Well that was a fail. I was not able to go through the whole thickness before to saw wore out this stuff is hard as a rock. I don't think it was a bi-metal hole saw. Now I have to figure out another way or get a better one. Will see. I will post a picture of the setup to cut the plates tonight.
Cheers,
Christian
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I did mine on a band saw. I made a circle cutting jig for a previous project. It's basically a plywood platform clamped to the table with a 1/4 dowel.
Where you using a drill press with that giant wheel?
Where you using a drill press with that giant wheel?
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I basically chucked it in my milling machine...
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you can do it with a hole saw and a drill press . I was able to cut all of mine with 2 hole saws. Take your time and dont use too much pressure.
Todd Pote
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
1987 10 Meter Mid Cabin
Double Pote-N_Sea
1992 Scout 15.5 Center Console
Re: Seacock Replacement
Those look nice!
What did you use to glue the plates? Epoxy and kitty hair or 5200, 4200...? I am leaning towards the kitty hair myself!
I did not have a chance to complete the plates. Cluster F&#K at work all week ... And this weekend, Mothers Day. Having the folks over for brunch on Sunday. Weekend is basically shot
Christian
What did you use to glue the plates? Epoxy and kitty hair or 5200, 4200...? I am leaning towards the kitty hair myself!
I did not have a chance to complete the plates. Cluster F&#K at work all week ... And this weekend, Mothers Day. Having the folks over for brunch on Sunday. Weekend is basically shot
Christian