New member with 1st wooden boat

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nas90tdi
Registered user
Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2015 8:33 pm
Location: Camano Island, Wash.

Re: New member with 1st wooden boat

Post by nas90tdi »

I had this week off work, so a lot of progress has been made. All loose paint, sealant and putty dug out and sanded on cabin and bridge exterior. I have my brother to thank for that. What a terrible job. Found 1 small spot of rot at front starboard edge of windshield. Unfortunately someone thought piling lots of silicone on top of each other and painting it was an effective moisture barrier. So we wound up with a 3X8 section that had to be cut out. One of the 4 MM plywood cover boards on the jut out by bridge had gotten water between the laminations and came apart. So, I had to pull that for replacement. All perfectly dry behind it fortunately. So ,more of a cosmetic issue.

I am following the suggestion for epoxy sealer and am going to use the epoxy filler for all fairing and joint fill. After a lot of research it seemed like the best method for joint sealing and fairing instead of trying to fill every joint with 5200 or similar.

How are you guys sealing the windows? I will not be repeating the silicone business. I am not a fan of silicone as a sealant at all. I was wondering how glazing compound would do it epoxy was used before and then seal the top with epoxy again prior to painting. I unfortunately have had a lot of practice glazing windows from an old house I owned for about 15 years. I restored all the original windows. So, I am pretty good at it at this point.
todd brinkerhoff
Moderate User
Posts: 696
Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2010 11:56 am
Location: Finger Lakes, NY

Re: New member with 1st wooden boat

Post by todd brinkerhoff »

Sounds like you have a great handle on this project. Although I am a big fan of epoxy sealer and fill-it, I always recommend a poly type caulk for seams on a wooden boat due to its flexibility when compared to epoxy products. The exception would be brand new and dry wood that has been completely stabilized with epoxy resins. In that case, the wood is really just a coring and never has the opportunity to expand and contract. In your case, the wood will continue to move. Some flexibility of seams is recommended.

Nice job so far. Keep us posted.
1991 Trojan International 10.8 Meter Express hull# 003 - 454 Crusaders
1961 Century Raven 22 - Gray Marine 327

Image
http://s1086.photobucket.com/home/Todd_ ... hoff/index
nas90tdi
Registered user
Posts: 9
Joined: Thu Jul 23, 2015 8:33 pm
Location: Camano Island, Wash.

Re: New member with 1st wooden boat

Post by nas90tdi »

I guess I should clarify that. Yes, I am using a poly caulk for all the joints. Epoxy on flat seams that previously had some sort of filler. My brother dug a lot of the old filler out because it was starting to get loose. I am assuming that the boat hasn't been faired or sealed like I am doing in 50 years. I think it was just repainted and caulked everytime. And, even though I am not trying to do a restoration. I will be much happier if the boat looks slick. So I am reshaping all of the windshield to cabin roof and the cockpit sides to eyebrow that sticks out. That was all filled from the factory, but it seems that it had been cracking over the years and they had just kept rubbing sealant into it and painting over.


After a fair bit of examination of the lapstrake sides. They are in fantastic shape but the paint has been run off the edges over and over slightly until it makes the boards look like they have a slightly ragged edge. I think squaring that edge back up to a sharp line will improve the overall appearance of the boat dramatically. So, after the cabin is done, since it had the loose paint, I will move down to the sides. The have no real peeling ,I am assuming due to the protection the upper part of the hull provides. So, that portion of the hull should be a cakewalk ,tons of sanding not withstanding.

I will get some picture up soon to show some progress. I have been trying to remember to snap off pictures, but I am the worlds worst about getting busy with something and not taking any pictures. Then get done and wish I had pictures of the process.

Still interested in thoughts on window glazing that will create a good seal. I suppose I could use something like a 3M 4200. That should seal and bond, but still be removable.
todd brinkerhoff
Moderate User
Posts: 696
Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2010 11:56 am
Location: Finger Lakes, NY

Re: New member with 1st wooden boat

Post by todd brinkerhoff »

If its going to be exposed I recommend 3m 4000uv. If it will be painted, maybe a poly sulfide would be better. I think the only poly sulfide I've seen is boat life.
1991 Trojan International 10.8 Meter Express hull# 003 - 454 Crusaders
1961 Century Raven 22 - Gray Marine 327

Image
http://s1086.photobucket.com/home/Todd_ ... hoff/index
todd brinkerhoff
Moderate User
Posts: 696
Joined: Sun Aug 15, 2010 11:56 am
Location: Finger Lakes, NY

Re: New member with 1st wooden boat

Post by todd brinkerhoff »

Pettit also makes a product called flexpoxy. Sounds like a unique product that could potentially fit the bill on wooden boat projects, but I've never tried it.
1991 Trojan International 10.8 Meter Express hull# 003 - 454 Crusaders
1961 Century Raven 22 - Gray Marine 327

Image
http://s1086.photobucket.com/home/Todd_ ... hoff/index
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