New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

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Captain Chill
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

Post by Captain Chill »

Ha! A lot of people not a big fan of the washer/dryer idea. I get it, I get it. Like I said though, it pays for itself since water & electricity are included in my slip fee. If it's no good, I'll just return it. No biggie. Let's cross that bridge when we get there. Presently I'd love some input from you guys on my current project.

Boat comes out on Friday. My mechanic is taking apart the engine and the boat yard is taking it out so that we can work below.

1st question. Do I go aluminum or plastic for my new fresh water and black water tanks? Or is there something better?When giving your input please don't consider price/saving money or DIY. Not that I have a lot of money, but I have put aside a large budget for this restoration process over the last year and I want the best of the best on all the projects.

Also, does the fresh water filter work something like this... I can get let's say (2) 20 Gallon fresh water tanks, put a nice filter in-between said (2) tanks, one of the tanks I keep filed with the Marina's shore water, that water then gets filleted into the 2nd freshwater holding tank. This way ALL of the water will be filtered for the boat. 2 sinks, and shower all the time... That way I can shower, drink, brush teeth for the whole boat all by using just one filter. Does this make sense?

2nd question. What are the advantages/disadvantages of choosing grey or white bilgekoat paint for the ER? I'm leaning towards grey because it will be harder to notice (spilt oil, mold, etc.) But if I can keep the white clean does it look 10x better than the grey? Anyone have a personal experience like/dislike of their colors?

Thanks in advance to my responders.
'The Pacific Chill' - F26 -1976
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The Dog House
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

Post by The Dog House »

Do you plan on staying at/below hull speed or do you plan on getting the boat up on plane? I would consider the F26 to be underpowered as is. If you put too much extra weight in her you will have difficulty getting her up on plane. Water weighs 8 pounds per gallon, so an extra 20 gallon water tank will add 160 pounds. The washer and dryer weigh 300 pounds, so that's equal to 3 people. If you need to put another 300 pounds on the opposite side of the washer and dryer to balance out the weight, you now have the equivalent of 5 people on board. You'll be o.k. probably if you go out solo, but if you take any one with you I think the boat might have trouble getting up on plane.
1993 Sea Ray 200 Overnighter OB with 1993 Mercury 150 hp Outboard
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Paul
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

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Captain Chill wrote:Ha! A lot of people not a big fan of the washer/dryer idea. I get it, I get it. Like I said though, it pays for itself since water & electricity are included in my slip fee. If it's no good, I'll just return it. No biggie. Let's cross that bridge when we get there. Presently I'd love some input from you guys on my current project.

Boat comes out on Friday. My mechanic is taking apart the engine and the boat yard is taking it out so that we can work below.

1st question. Do I go aluminum or plastic for my new fresh water and black water tanks? Or is there something better?When giving your input please don't consider price/saving money or DIY. Not that I have a lot of money, but I have put aside a large budget for this restoration process over the last year and I want the best of the best on all the projects.

Also, does the fresh water filter work something like this... I can get let's say (2) 20 Gallon fresh water tanks, put a nice filter in-between said (2) tanks, one of the tanks I keep filed with the Marina's shore water, that water then gets filleted into the 2nd freshwater holding tank. This way ALL of the water will be filtered for the boat. 2 sinks, and shower all the time... That way I can shower, drink, brush teeth for the whole boat all by using just one filter. Does this make sense?

2nd question. What are the advantages/disadvantages of choosing grey or white bilgekoat paint for the ER? I'm leaning towards grey because it will be harder to notice (spilt oil, mold, etc.) But if I can keep the white clean does it look 10x better than the grey? Anyone have a personal experience like/dislike of their colors?

Thanks in advance to my responders.
I'd go with HDPE for the water tank, standard sizes are readily available and fairly cost effective. As for the filter, I have one attached to a potable water hose and filter the water as I fill the tank. As for Bilgekote grey is your friend, I had a white bilge another boat and it looked great however it required frequent cleaning to keep it looking that way.

Hope this helps
Paul
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

Post by P-Dogg »

But if I can keep the white clean does it look 10x better than the grey?
Yes. But the first time that you get a pulley misaligned and start throwing black dust everywhere, you might wish it weren't so easy to see. At least that's what I heard about white engines -- nice if you have paid crew to keep the machinery spaces spotless, but a PITA otherwise. Same probably holds for packing drips and smut. My bilge is gray. It looks fine enough.

Before you paint, you may want to do something about those limber holes. I presume they are unsealed, as I have never seen a factory-original sealed limber hole. Rather than seal mine, and everything that ever got into to wood, I used 5200 to form a dam that is about 1/2" tall at the bottom of the stringer, so that water flowing through the limber hole would not find its way into the stringer (unless there was a lot of it). I also sealed any big holes in the roving before painting.

I replaced my aluminum water tank with an HDPE tank from tank depot or something. Old tank was a cylinder, new tank is pentagon that old tank inscribes, so I picked-up a few extra gallons. I do not have a filter on my boat, I just don't let the water sit. Easy enough to do if you just use the boat. Inspect new tank carefully before signing for it.
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

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White engines are great , not hard to keep clean But you can't say the same about bilges (been there). I still like grey bilges and engine rooms . Plastic/HDPE tanks are the way to go IMO
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Captain Chill
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

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The Dog House wrote:Do you plan on staying at/below hull speed or do you plan on getting the boat up on plane? I would consider the F26 to be underpowered as is. If you put too much extra weight in her you will have difficulty getting her up on plane. Water weighs 8 pounds per gallon, so an extra 20 gallon water tank will add 160 pounds. The washer and dryer weigh 300 pounds, so that's equal to 3 people. If you need to put another 300 pounds on the opposite side of the washer and dryer to balance out the weight, you now have the equivalent of 5 people on board. You'll be o.k. probably if you go out solo, but if you take any one with you I think the boat might have trouble getting up on plane.
Greetings Dog House! I'm looking at weight replacement here and not just adding weight onto more weight. I think it will all balance out because this huge 2nd gas tank is where I'm putting the new fresh water tank and water heater. This pictured 2nd gas tank (port side) must be at least 50 gallons if not more. If the PO had that filled and was still able to get on a plane, I don't think I should have any trouble with fresh water in there replacing the 2nd gas tank. Paul of the 'Cruise Control' mentioned that he has a filter that goes from his hose to his fresh water tank which sounds like a good plan instead of the 2 fresh water tanks. So, one fresh water tank and one water heater should fit well in there and have about the same weight as that 2nd gas tank filled once did.
Image

As for the washer/dryer, again, the pictured fridge (super heavy) will be coming out and replaced by the washer/dryer. Yes, I'm sure the washer/dryer is heavier but not by an astronomical amount. I found a new, much smaller fridge that will be installed where the storage cabinets to the left of the current fridge is.
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Captain Chill
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

Post by Captain Chill »

Paul wrote: I'd go with HDPE for the water tank, standard sizes are readily available and fairly cost effective. As for the filter, I have one attached to a potable water hose and filter the water as I fill the tank. As for Bilgekote grey is your friend, I had a white bilge another boat and it looked great however it required frequent cleaning to keep it looking that way.

Hope this helps
Hey Paul! Big fan of your work.

Looks like it's been decided on grey Bilgekote and HDPE tanks. Would you happen to have a link to your filter that I could check out?
'The Pacific Chill' - F26 -1976
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Captain Chill
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

Post by Captain Chill »

P-Dogg wrote:
But if I can keep the white clean does it look 10x better than the grey?
Yes. But the first time that you get a pulley misaligned and start throwing black dust everywhere, you might wish it weren't so easy to see. At least that's what I heard about white engines -- nice if you have paid crew to keep the machinery spaces spotless, but a PITA otherwise. Same probably holds for packing drips and smut. My bilge is gray. It looks fine enough.

Before you paint, you may want to do something about those limber holes. I presume they are unsealed, as I have never seen a factory-original sealed limber hole. Rather than seal mine, and everything that ever got into to wood, I used 5200 to form a dam that is about 1/2" tall at the bottom of the stringer, so that water flowing through the limber hole would not find its way into the stringer (unless there was a lot of it). I also sealed any big holes in the roving before painting.

I replaced my aluminum water tank with an HDPE tank from tank depot or something. Old tank was a cylinder, new tank is pentagon that old tank inscribes, so I picked-up a few extra gallons. I do not have a filter on my boat, I just don't let the water sit. Easy enough to do if you just use the boat. Inspect new tank carefully before signing for it.
-Hey P-Dogg! Going with the grey Bilgekote, thanks for the input.

-Wow, this is over my boating experience level. I didn't even know what limber holes were till I just did a quick Google search. If the boat has been ok over these past 40 years with them not sealed hopefully everything will stay ok if I don't mess with them? :|

-Going with HDPE tanks. Nobody really said why they prefer them over aluminum but the majority say to go with HDPE so I'll just go by that. Thanks for the input!
'The Pacific Chill' - F26 -1976
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Captain Chill
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

Post by Captain Chill »

prowlersfish wrote:White engines are great , not hard to keep clean But you can't say the same about bilges (been there). I still like grey bilges and engine rooms . Plastic/HDPE tanks are the way to go IMO
Done and done! Going with that setup, thanks for the input!
'The Pacific Chill' - F26 -1976
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RonW
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

Post by RonW »

Hello CC

I'm new here too. Love the lines of your boat.
I'm a little concerned about your "darkest limo tinting for the all windows". If you are thinking of the upper windows, it's pretty hard to see when navigating at night even with clear glass.
Good luck.

Ron
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

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Captain Chill wrote:
prowlersfish wrote:White engines are great , not hard to keep clean But you can't say the same about bilges (been there). I still like grey bilges and engine rooms . Plastic/HDPE tanks are the way to go IMO
Done and done! Going with that setup, thanks for the input!
LOL My engines came white ( Cummins Diesels) I would keep the 318 mopar blue If was me they also look Red (IMO ) But honestly I have had no issues keeping the diesel looking clean and I do touch up a lot .HATE RUST :mrgreen:
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Captain Chill
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

Post by Captain Chill »

RonW wrote:Hello CC

I'm new here too. Love the lines of your boat.
I'm a little concerned about your "darkest limo tinting for the all windows". If you are thinking of the upper windows, it's pretty hard to see when navigating at night even with clear glass.
Good luck.

Ron
Hey Ron! Nice to have another new member here to share projects with. Thanks for the input on the windows. I thought about the windows being to dark and I realized I am always underway with the windshields open anyhow. The F26's two front windows open up and the two side windows slide behind each other. I never go out in bad weather (not that there is much in Los Angeles anyhow :wink: ) So I think I'll be ok vison-wise underway with the windshields/sides open as usual.
'The Pacific Chill' - F26 -1976
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Captain Chill
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

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prowlers fish wrote: LOL My engines came white ( Cummins Diesels) I would keep the 318 mopar blue If was me they also look Red (IMO ) But honestly I have had no issues keeping the diesel looking clean and I do touch up a lot .HATE RUST :mrgreen:
Ya, not sure why people were commenting on me painting the actual engine. In my comment I think I said only paint the engine room. Even though the F26 doesn't really have an engine room, more like an engine cubby. :roll: I have no plans to paint the actual engine.
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prowlersfish
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

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Engine room just sounds good , But engine cubby is more truthful . It sure get tight when my fat butt trys to do some work
Boating is good for the soul
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6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat :D
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Captain Chill
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Re: New Member - Beginning of a Restoration Journal

Post by Captain Chill »

And so it begins... The resurrection. Placed in these cocoon straps only to be soon born again and emerge as 'The Pacific Chill'
Image

I had no idea how much money it was just to "simply" take out an engine. The yard is quoting me at least 8 hours @ $110/hr to take it out. And then 8+ hours to reinstall and align it. Plus crane fees of $220 each time, I could be looking at $3,000 just for them to take out a perfectly fine engine so that I have room to work below. This hurts... this hurts a lot.

Today though the yard is: (taken from invoice)
Sand/Prep remaining specific areas of failing paint around bow and water-line. Prime with 2-part epoxy primer in preparation for bottom paint. $350 for materials and $375 for labor.

This seem right to you more experience restorers?
'The Pacific Chill' - F26 -1976
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