11 meter swim platform part 1

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Jimmy
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Joined: Thu May 28, 2015 10:02 pm

11 meter swim platform part 1

Post by Jimmy »

The swim platform on the 11 meter was a bit on the small side, so,,, a bigger one was in the plans. I had it quoted from a local Marina. Price of $4,750 was what was quoted. So did some digging into the internet to see how hard it would to make one myself. Seemed doable. Only having minimal fiberglass experience, felt up to the task. However, I chose to go with west system epoxy vs fiberglass. #1, the epoxy does not stink, so I could do it inside if needed, being in Michigan, that was needed. #2. The epoxy was more $ but had the better strength, and flexibilty according to the experts.

The swim platform is 130" long, and 31" wide. Step by step is below for those wanting to give it a try.

Materials:

1-4x8x3/4" marine plywood
1-4x8x1/4" marine plywood
4- standard 2x4 studs 12 ft.
1-2x6x12 board
1-4x8 sheet 2" foam board
1-box brass wood screws 1-3/4"
3 gallons west system resin with hardner
Heavy weave fiberglass cloth 85 sq feet
1 quart precoat
1 quart paint of choice

Step:

1.Cut the 3/4" plywood into 3 strips of equal width. Since the platform is over 8 feet long, you will need to stager the strips so you can cut one of them in half to butt up to the other pcs. Therefore increasing the length. Make sure you make stingers in the frame to screw into on the mating ends in step 3.
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2. Using saw horses with long boards to support and clamp the plywood to, layout the shape of the platform you want. Dont forget to make nice radius's on the exterior corners, or you will regret this when you put on the rub rail.... Then using a skill saw, cut the plywood to the shape you want. You can use a jig, or sawsall, but leave room to clean up with the belt sander.

3. With the 3/4" plywood clamped to your support boards, make the frame using 2x4's size and shape up to you. Stager the middle stringers so you can use them to butt the plywood ends if your platform is over 8 feet long. Also, now is a good time to know where your support brackets will go. Put stringers in these locations to give you a good screw anchor point. If you need to cut a radius to match the transom, you will need/want to use a 2x6 to give you the added cut out and still have integrity on the transom side of the platform. I had a 2-1/2" radius from end to end. The frame boards were screwed to each other using 3" wood screws with pilot holes. This just holds them together, not really a strength thing it is merely a spacer and filler. It does add strength as well, however the strenght comes from it all epoxied together. I actually used scrap wood to hold the frame togther as well until it was screwd to the plywood

4. Now lay the frame on your support boards on the horses. Lay your 3/4" plywood on the frame to match the shape. Then drill and chamfer the brass screw holes in the plywood spacing every 3/4" making sure you get good locations on the frame below it. Also make sure your butted ends meet at a stinger. DONT screw them in yet... Just get them started.
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5 Once you have all the holes drilled and chamfered, get ready to start mixing the epoxy. I moderatly coated the frame with epoxy resin, then mounted the boards using clamps to hold them in place. Make sure everything is properly located, thencut loose with the power drill. I used a drywall bit, and worked great. Screw them all tight. You will see resin oose out. That is good, just make sure you check all the screws to assure a good tight joint. Again make sure everything is in the right spot. Once it cures, it is there forever. Let cure 24 hrs.
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1988 Trojan 11 Meter Express


My wife made me do it... Really.....
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