1989 Trojan 10 Meter 340 Mid cabin - Upgrade thread

[zedtwentyate]

I would bet money that all you have is a leak from one of the trim tab mounting screws. all that "bump out" is a piece of hard wood backing for the trim tab screws that is glassed in(using that term loosely since the glass is basically there to just hold the wood and not seal it from the bilge. )
I quit using 5200 a while back. although I disagree with the term "permanent" that 3m uses in the description, it can delaminate fiberglass when force is used during dis assembly of a part glued with 5200. 4200 is usually more the adequate.
If possible i would try simply removing and rebedding the mounting screws for your tabs with 4200.
Your transom (and Hull) are solid glass so the only thing that could rot would be the wood used to back up the screws. i found the i had more then enough thickness in the fiberglass transom for the screws to bite so i would not worry too much about the wood right now.
As far as the strut bolts you should be able to see water weeping from around a bolt if it is leaking. if its not I would try to wait until your cutlass bearing needs replacing, pull the strut, replace the bearing and then reinstall it with new bolts and caulk.

Thanks Todd. That makes total sense. I was wondering what that bump was. I'll haul out and check out the bedding on that trim tab. I like your POV on 5200. Makes sense.

did you end up selling the boat? I get jealous every time i see it!

[yorklyn]

Should be 8 to 10 screws holding each tab on. Mine were #3 head Philips sheet metal screws.
Boats for sale. Just turned down a offer of 34k cash on it. Decided that I'm not desperate, if someone makes me a reasonable offer I'll consider it, if not I'm keeping it and will hopefully have money to put her in next year.
I haven't been on the site that much recently but I'm now on your "upgrade" thread. Will do my best to help with any more questions. Don't hesitate to PM me if you have any other questions that I might be able to help with.
Good luck.

[zedtwentyate]

Should be 8 to 10 screws holding each tab on. Mine were #3 head Philips sheet metal screws.
Boats for sale. Just turned down a offer of 34k cash on it. Decided that I'm not desperate, if someone makes me a reasonable offer I'll consider it, if not I'm keeping it and will hopefully have money to put her in next year.
I haven't been on the site that much recently but I'm now on your "upgrade" thread. Will do my best to help with any more questions. Don't hesitate to PM me if you have any other questions that I might be able to help with.
Good luck.

It should probably read "Fixing the crap the previous owner messed up thread". It was supposed to be an upgrade thread, but that seems to have changed a bit!

Thanks for the support!

[captainmaniac]

Boats for sale. Just turned down a offer of 34k cash on it. Decided that I'm not desperate, if someone makes me a reasonable offer I'll consider it, if not I'm keeping it and will hopefully have money to put her in next year.

Not trying to hijack, but you hit one of my trigger points... if you are going to sell, hold out for what it is worth. That's the only way we can sustain the true value of Trojans... desperate people who give them away for peanuts just trash values for the rest of us.

[wayne 1]

I have the same lean on my 1989 10meter Mid cabin. It is better with the fresh water tank at least half full and extra fuel in tank on port side. I used shrink wrap tape to cover holes temporally , it comes off well.

[RWS]

when I bought my 1983 International (2001) I arranged to take two weeks of vacation to correct most of the surveyors noted issues while at a high and dry in Ruskin, FL.

The myriad list included handling WIRE NUTS (yes, I kid you not) at the bilge pumps and frozen open seacocks, among other issues.

Despite two weeks of very LONG days, all part of my inboard learning curve, I did not get the list completed.

She was, however SEAWORTHY when I was done.

It's an ongoing process. Just stay AHEAD of the curve.

RWS

[RWS]

and I went from a 22' Grady White with Yamaha Outboard to the 33' Trojan !!!!!

[BobCT]

If the strut, you might be able to slightly torque the nuts in the boat and see if that helps. That seems too easy though if someone has already tried a repair. As a matter of fact, you could remove all of the nuts and pry the reinforcing plate off completely. If water is getting past one of the bolts you'll be able to see it firsthand. if this is the case, you can fix it from inside the boat for now or get a sense to let it ago until a longer haul out.

The strut should be sealed to the hull and around the perimeter. If water gets past that point, the bolts should be watertight to prevent water from seeping past into the boat.

One thing that would help would be to vac out all the water and then clean that whole part of the hull with acetone. Then you'll have a nice clean area to start. This would narrow down between strut and tabs. If you open the small hatch closest to the stern (in the engine room), you can stick your head down and see the inside of the drain plug. A leak there would be easy to spot.

Bob

[zedtwentyate]

If the strut, you might be able to slightly torque the nuts in the boat and see if that helps. That seems too easy though if someone has already tried a repair. As a matter of fact, you could remove all of the nuts and pry the reinforcing plate off completely. If water is getting past one of the bolts you'll be able to see it firsthand. if this is the case, you can fix it from inside the boat for now or get a sense to let it ago until a longer haul out.

The strut should be sealed to the hull and around the perimeter. If water gets past that point, the bolts should be watertight to prevent water from seeping past into the boat.

One thing that would help would be to vac out all the water and then clean that whole part of the hull with acetone. Then you'll have a nice clean area to start. This would narrow down between strut and tabs. If you open the small hatch closest to the stern (in the engine room), you can stick your head down and see the inside of the drain plug. A leak there would be easy to spot.

Bob

Found the drain plug! It looks a lot different from the old F27, so I didn't notice it.

The strut mount is most certainly not he source of the leak. I did identify a section right near that piece of glassed in wood that the leak is coming from. I am now convinced that it is the bedding of the trim tab. Thanks gents!

[gardnersf]

Glad to have another 10 meter mid cabin owner around. Had mine for 8 years. Happy to chime in. I had fuel tank issues a couple of years ago. I honk the ethanol essentially cleans the tank and you have to work the crap out. I built a homemade fuel polisher with a marine fuel pump. A file water separator and cartridge filter and lines. I pulled from the engine fuel line and pumped the fuel back to the fuel tank fill. After about 8 hours of cleaning, the fuel was much better. If you were around I would loan it to you. I also have had good luck with Startrom additive. When I had my fuel issues I did some testing in mason jars and Startrom did clean up the fuel some

[yorklyn]

I just cut out the stringers, yanked out the tanks and drained them! I must say your method sounds much less invasive! Lol

[RWS]

The 10 Meter hull continues to be the unmatched, undisputed SHERMAN TANK of the boat industry.

RWS

[zedtwentyate]

Glad to have another 10 meter mid cabin owner around. Had mine for 8 years. Happy to chime in. I had fuel tank issues a couple of years ago. I honk the ethanol essentially cleans the tank and you have to work the crap out. I built a homemade fuel polisher with a marine fuel pump. A file water separator and cartridge filter and lines. I pulled from the engine fuel line and pumped the fuel back to the fuel tank fill. After about 8 hours of cleaning, the fuel was much better. If you were around I would loan it to you. I also have had good luck with Startrom additive. When I had my fuel issues I did some testing in mason jars and Startrom did clean up the fuel some

Thanks Gardner...I was actually reading on another forum about DIY fuel polishing. I might give it a shot. I'm in no way shape or form going to start cutting stringers or getting as dee as our friend York! I wish I could, but I dont have the time...it's boating season!

I'm going to order some of the Star Brite startron stuff too...

Thanks!

[zedtwentyate]

Well, I polished some fuel today. I'm not sure if this will do the trick, bit I figured I'd give it a shot.

I set up a 12 volt marine pump with a filter and ran it for a few hours. I only had about 30 gallons in the tank at the time. In hindsight I probably should have set up a water separator too. Here are a few pictures:





I'll let you guys know if it did the trick. I'll be filling the tanks tomorrow and going for a trip in the canal to a neighboring lake (Onondaga Lake, formerly one of the worlds most polluted!).

[RWS]

if there were a way to put the boat into a PAINT CAN SHAKER you could easily get the job done with a bigger filter setup.

Problem is there is so much trash in that tank that won't come loose until you are underway.

Have you considered upgrading to a cartridge type filter/water separator made by Racor?

Don't know if a diesel cartridge would work with gas, but these have clear housings and tremendous capacity.

The cartridges can be purchased on line and are not expensive. They come in 30 micron, 20 micron, 10 micron and 2 micron sizes.

Once you are underway the motion of the boat will loosen up all that debris and.......

I run two 900 series filters for the engines, and a 500 for the genny.

Here's the 900

http://www.allpointsmarineco.com/view/251/546/

you might get by with the 500

IMHO, going to an OVERSIZED capacity filter/water separator is the smartest, easiest way to solve your problem, AS LONG AS THE FUEL PICKUP DOES NOT BECOME CLOGGED.

RWS