Finished boat

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Homer
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 4:51 pm
Location: Sequim Washington via Alaska

Finished boat

Post by Homer »

Its been a while, so I thought I'd send some pictures of my boat that I prettied up. I can't call it a restoration, its just got some new wood in a few areas and some new stain and varnish. Sure looks good tho dudnt it?

So now its for sale. What do you all think is a fair asking price?

Homer


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Homer
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Posts: 8
Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 4:51 pm
Location: Sequim Washington via Alaska

Its for sale so make an offer

Post by Homer »

Somebody make me an offer. I'm at $2800.



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61SkiBee
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Location: Minnesota

Post by 61SkiBee »

Homer,

If you're going to advertise it to the general public, I'd call it "Restored." It's very nice. My '61 SkiBee is rougher, but it's the inboard cruiser so maybe a little more desireable. I've had the number $2000 in my head for years, but every spring I think I'll get it out more this year, and every fall, like now, it's not a seller's market here in Minnesota.

Let me know how you come out on it. I'd like to know if I'm being reasonable. Heck, I know I'm being reasonable, I just don't know if I'm being "realistic." :wink:
Guy Strauss

"Das Boot"
'61 SkiBee, 17' Inboard Runabout ski tow
Ford 292 Interceptor (pictured)

Homer
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Location: Sequim Washington via Alaska

Post by Homer »

Thanks for the feedback SkiBee. I'm sure that very soon the summer memories will be replaced by winter memories in Minnesota. Sorry about that. I'm advertizing in 48 North magazine this month, I know my timing is bad, but maybe, just maybe someone will happen along. I'm pretty flexible on price, the only real money invested is my own labor, and I work cheap. I want to start building a couple of small skiffs for my grandsons, and I have to get this boat out before I can start making a mess again, so I'm very motivated. Not much traffic on this site these days, so I don't expect much response, though I do appreciate hearing from you and your realistic price.

Take care and have a good winter, dream of warmer days.

H

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61SkiBee
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Post by 61SkiBee »

Hey Homer,

Thanks for your message. (If you want to keep up on a thread without having to keep checking, you can just mark the "Notify me when a reply is posted" box below your post when you write one, and they e-mail you when someone writes.)

Good luck on that sale. I figure I'll park mine over winter and maybe advertise in the spring, although those "run 'til you sell" ads don't require timing for the season, and like you say, you never know when someone will get the itch. Especially if they've got heated storage space and want to get the boat all gussied up over winter for next year. Or, like me sometimes, the year after that.

Let me know how it turns out.
Guy Strauss

"Das Boot"
'61 SkiBee, 17' Inboard Runabout ski tow
Ford 292 Interceptor (pictured)

Homer
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Joined: Tue Dec 27, 2005 4:51 pm
Location: Sequim Washington via Alaska

Post by Homer »

SkiBee,

Its about a done deal. I sold the boat, but letting the new owner make a few payments, so its never over until its over. But I'm now able to move forward with my other plans. I want to build a few skiffs for my grandsons and get them headed in the right direction. I think every young boy should have his own skiff!
So for now the boat remains in my shop, though soon to go outside and by mid December it should be long gone. I think the new owner is very pleased with his deal. I got a fair "wintertime" price and he has a nice little boat ready for spring. Everybody's happy.
I'll keep on checking this site and talk with you later.

Homer

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61SkiBee
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Location: Minnesota

Post by 61SkiBee »

Sounds like an ideal sale. Good luck on the skiffs. My SkiBee is winterized and sitting in the back yard. Pretty much ready to go for next year except some cleanup. It started fine and I ran the carbs and fuel lines dry.

Probably a good thing I didn't try to tow it. The pickup is acting bad, killing occasionally and the tranny must've leaked down while it sat. It would've bee a short trip.

Take care,

Guy
Guy Strauss

"Das Boot"
'61 SkiBee, 17' Inboard Runabout ski tow
Ford 292 Interceptor (pictured)

Jake

Post by Jake »

Hi all
According to me I'm sure that very soon the summer memories will be replaced by winter memories in Minnesota. Sorry about that.

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61SkiBee
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Post by 61SkiBee »

According to me, you're right!
Guy Strauss

"Das Boot"
'61 SkiBee, 17' Inboard Runabout ski tow
Ford 292 Interceptor (pictured)

shutterbug
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Re: Finished boat

Post by shutterbug »

OK, I can't believe that I ran into this post. I am the new owner of this boat :o I do have to refinish it tho, the finish that was on it just flaked off down to the bare wood on the nose of the bow. I have never done this and would like some tips on it. I have the entire top sanded down to the wood and am just about ready to caulk it and finish it. I have some of the bottom side sanded and will re paint it white.
Should I stain it or just go with Epifanes wood finish? I really like the dark color it was when I bought it, it just didn't stay on it. I am also considering staining it with Red Mahogany then use the Epifanes, not sure how to proceed. I am also not sure how much stain to buy, I guess I would measure the top side for square footage then see what a can would cover?
Anyway, any advice would be highly appreciated. My email is pacificshutterbug@gmail.com .
Thanks;
Bob

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Paul
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Location: Windsor Ont.

Re: Finished boat

Post by Paul »

Bob,

First of all welcome to the forum and secondly, that looks like a really nice boat. If you don't get an answer to your question in this forum ("Runabout Owners Group"), be sure to post the question in the "Trojan Boats Forum". There are some people there that are very knowledgeable about wooden Trojans.

Best of luck with your new boat.
Paul
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB

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61SkiBee
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Re: Finished boat

Post by 61SkiBee »

Bob,

I used Interlux mahogany stain and filler which gives a little color, leaves the grain very distinguishable, and helps cut down on soak-in for the varnish coats.

I'd give you the part number for the stain/filler but I bought mine so long ago I'm pretty sure it's changed by now.

The name on the can is "Interlux Paste Wood Filler and Stain, Brown Mahogany"

It's not a stain that you leave on the wood, though! You brush it on with the grain, then wipe it off with a rag across the grain.

If you get a can it'll give better instructions than mine to follow, so you can just disregard them. I found that a small (one pint) can goes a long way.

Of course, it should be applied before caulking or it'll stain the caulk, too. Especially important on a planked deck.

Good luck!

Guy
Guy Strauss

"Das Boot"
'61 SkiBee, 17' Inboard Runabout ski tow
Ford 292 Interceptor (pictured)

shutterbug
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Re: Finished boat

Post by shutterbug »

Thanks Guy! I can get that thru Amazon. What do you use for a finish varnish? Supposedly you don't have to sand between coats of epifanes if you apply the next coat within 72 hours. I am reading rave reviews on it. Do you have any idea of the coverage of that stuff? I don't want to have to order more in mid stream, would rather over purchase than under.
I think I will get two pints of the Mahogany stain (unless you are pretty sure one pint would do it) and some Epfanes gloss. What do you like to use for caulking?
Thanks a lot for your advice!
Bob

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61SkiBee
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Location: Minnesota

Re: Finished boat

Post by 61SkiBee »

Bob,

Don't know anything about epifanes. I already have an unopened gallon of Pettit 1015 Z Spar Captain's Varnish, Traditional Amber Color with Extra U.V. protection.
It looked like what I wanted. I guess I'll find when I use it.

I wanted Amber, but of course Clear is another option. Nice thing about Amber is you can spot any runs onto white paint and stuff like that, plus it has that nice "glow" to it. It remains to be seen how well amber will work on my lightly stained wood. If you REALLY like how your wood turns out, use clear varnish to avoid any unwanted changel.

I'd get a gallon of varnish. Pricey, initially, but even though you won't use it all on your primary coats, later on you'll want it for re-varnishing. Basically, to preserve the finish, I varnish a boat about as often as you'd wax a car, and it takes about the same amount of time to apply one coat with a foam brush, after sanding and wiping. I'd suggest a little very light sanding with very fine grit before these maintenance re-coats. You'll pick off any loose old varnish that way, and also any "nibs" or rough spots.

I don't know about not sanding between finish coats with epifanes. Just follow the directions. My Pettit spar varnish calls for 180 to 320 grit sanding between coats (I'm thinking 220 would do). Remember, one of the main reasons for sanding between coats is to cut the gloss so the next coat adheres better. I don't think it can hurt to give the finish a little "tooth" between coats, no matter what varnish you use, but then I know nothing of the epifanes stuff.

I'm really still experimenting with caulks. I have a plan for this go-round of deck caulking, but I won't know how well it works 'til I try it and don't want to mislead you. I don't think you can go too far wrong with Boat Life caulk, and for structural adhesives, 3M and Sikaflex perform well for structural repairs (gluing and bedding, basically) and even some caulking where you really want it to stick. Just watch the 3M part numbers... one is just really good and sticky, the other one dries so hard you can drill it like a piece of plastic. Check with your local boating goods store and read the tubes. Do NOT buy this stuff at a hardware store, they will probably know nothing about what you're trying to do. You might get some stuff a little cheaper, but you could also get led down the wrong path.

It'll be interesting to see if we progress on these projects kind of simultaneously. I work pretty slowly, so you'll probably be way ahead of me soon!

Guy
Guy Strauss

"Das Boot"
'61 SkiBee, 17' Inboard Runabout ski tow
Ford 292 Interceptor (pictured)

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