Gas Tank Replacement

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61SkiBee
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Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2005 7:21 pm
Location: Minnesota

Gas Tank Replacement

Post by 61SkiBee »

I did a lot of hunting around last winter for a replacement gas tank for my SkiBee inboard. There are poly tanks out there that are close to the right size and made for vertical installation ("saddle tanks"). I'm thinking about ordering one made by Tempo that retails for around $150.

For several years now I've been steadily replacing gas filters full of sand and rust, thinking that EVENTUALLY the old tank would clear. It's been a lot of work for nothing.

The original tank is welded steel and HEAVY. I don't know if it provides necessary ballast, but I would think lightening up the back end would improve ability to get up on plane--but maybe at the cost of handling?

Anyone have experience with a retrofit, or any ideas about the downside of a lighter poly tank?
Guy Strauss

"Das Boot"
'61 SkiBee, 17' Inboard Runabout ski tow
Ford 292 Interceptor (pictured)
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61SkiBee
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Joined: Sat Mar 26, 2005 7:21 pm
Location: Minnesota

Post by 61SkiBee »

OK, I'm dreaming again about a gas tank replacement, specifically the big rear tank that sits upright by the transom in my inboard SkiBee. Any inboard owners have ideas on this? Anyone else having problems with a lot of contamination in the tank?

I'd clean the old tank out, but it just seems to make sense to replace it with a much lightert poly or aluminum tank. The thing is made of heavy galvanized sheet steel, and the last time I had it out I estimated the tank ALONE weighs at least 100 pounds dry. Think about how much it weighs with 25 gallons of gas in it! With a 900 pound engine, I don't need any more ballast, especially in the rear of the boat when I want to get up on plane.

Any help??
Guy Strauss

"Das Boot"
'61 SkiBee, 17' Inboard Runabout ski tow
Ford 292 Interceptor (pictured)
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Paul
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Fuel Tank

Post by Paul »

To drop in a poly tank would probably be the simplest and least expensive way to go if you can find one that will fit "properly" into the space. If not, a custom made tank is the way to go. If you look around on the internet, you will find several places that will build a tank to the dimensions that you send them and they ship them right to your door. http://www.coastline-tanks.com is one of them and there are several others so I would recomend shopping around. There may be a local fab shop near you that can do the job as well, just be sure that they build it to meet proper standards set by the USCG. These standards can also be found in the internet. An aluminum tank should also be epoxy coated to prevent corrosion.

Hope this helps
Paul
Cruise Control
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61SkiBee
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Post by 61SkiBee »

Paul.

Thanks for your prompt reply--it must be boating season! The Poly Tanks are a lot cheaper, and I'm leaning that way. I had a line on one a while back called a "saddle tank" evidently for placement along the sides of a larger boat with below-decks engine. It was wider at the top and narrower at the bottom (9" vs 5") It might fit, as my transom is also at an angle, although not that steep. Best price was a poly tank from "Boat Bandit" at $150 plus shipping. I believe Tempo was the manufacturer.

I'd like to get a very close match on size-- 18" H x 48" W x 6" D with the filler on the port side top. If you run across anyone with rectangular poly tanks in those dimensions, let me know. I just want to make sure I only have to buy it once and it'll fit--no shipping stuff back.

I also found "Scotties" that did custom aluminum fairly reasonable, $300 (but that was "minimum") and Boatersworld.com carries Tempo poly tanks, in case anyone else is shopping around.

I'lll check Coastline out. Thanks for the tips!
Guy Strauss

"Das Boot"
'61 SkiBee, 17' Inboard Runabout ski tow
Ford 292 Interceptor (pictured)
60skibee
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Post by 60skibee »

Hi;

I don't thick that convetingto the plastic tank will affect the ballast. If I remember, you had trouble shipping water over the transom and this will help.

Well I did not get the boat restored over the winter as planned but I am back on track now. Falling off the ladder seems to affect ones knee and makes it impossible to perform the work. !00% now! I am up to the details now like filling the deck seams with caulk. Then the engine goes back in and away we go!

Don't remember if we discussed the engine, it is a 1963 Ford 289, 210hp. It may be too much for the boat but I will try. Question, the transmission seems simple enough but I notice that the shift lever goes toward the back of the boat when the control is in forward. Is this correct??

I will try and post pictures soon to detail this project.


Bill
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