Help repairing hull damage

cookscomp · Post by **cookscomp** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 12:44 am

Hello trojan owners. Warm weather today got me out and checking things out on my f-26. I saw some cracking at the front of the keel that looked worst than typical spider cracks. I took a screw driver to the area that was loose and think I have a major problem. There is probably a 6"-8" area down there that is soft. Man I almost feel sick about it. Ive done some limited fiberglass work. Any recommendations from you guys? I'll try to list some pics.

daydrmr999 · Post by **daydrmr999** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 1:14 am

I've found this website very helpful, http://forums.bateau2.com/
I actually bought a set of plans from them and planned to build my own boat before I got my project Trojan. Check out the Repair Techniques board. The members as well as owner of the site are really great when it comes to helping out. They also have really good prices on fiberglass etc. I am not affiliated with the site in anyway other than being a member of the boards and customer.

Good Luck,

Mike

alexander38 · Post by **alexander38** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:14 am

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 9:00 am

alexander38 wrote:i'd go to a pro. in the navy fiberglassing was in my rate and you could have a whole lot of hidden damage. what did you hit ?

The damage was caused when the boat hit something and the damaged area was ignored. The fiberglass was fractured and water entered the fibers. The fiberglass then delaminated. The damaged glass must be removed and extends beyond the area you chipped away. This is a pretty straight forward repair for a glassman.

To make this repair the fiberglass will be ground back to sound glass and new glass laird in. There are many sites that show how to make the repair. Watch them and decide if you think you are capable of making the repair or whether you need to bring in a pro.

Check your insurance policy. You may be covered.

chucka · Post by **chucka** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 10:50 am

West systems published an excellent booklet that describes fiberglass repair techniques. WEST System - Fiberglass Boat Repair and Maintenance Manual.

Even if you decide to go with a professional repair, you can download a copy to help you consider options and decide on a course of action. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/How ... enance.pdf

jav · Post by **jav** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 11:13 am

Don't get sick about it... it's really not that big a deal and it looks like you weren't the sole cause of the problem. That area seems to have been repaired before...and not too well. If you look at the edges directly adjacent to the missing piece, there is a really thick layer of unreinforced resin. Thats not gelcoat, it's not factory and it's not an oppropriate structural repair.

A good repair is not difficult and can be stronger than the original section. You do have to take the right steps and take your time but i'ts very doable.

As stated above- the first step is disecting the damage back to stucturally sound laminate. Once that's done- there's numerous resources on the correct way to build it back up. The hardest part is not going to be getting a good structural repair, bet getting the right hull and chine profile when your done. If your good with your hands and can follow directions well, you can fix this for about $100-$200. Or, you can get a pro to do it probably for under a grand (shop it around).

gjrylands · Post by **gjrylands** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 11:52 am

jav wrote:Don't get sick about it... it's really not that big a deal and it looks like you weren't the sole cause of the problem. That area seems to have been repaired before...and not too well. If you look at the edges directly adjacent to the missing piece, there is a really thick layer of unreinforced resin. Thats not gelcoat, it's not factory and it's not an oppropriate structural repair.

A good repair is not difficult and can be stronger than the original section. You do have to take the right steps and take your time but i'ts very doable.

As stated above- the first step is disecting the damage back to stucturally sound laminate. Once that's done- there's numerous resources on the correct way to build it back up. The hardest part is not going to be getting a good structural repair, bet getting the right hull and chine profile when your done. If your good with your hands and can follow directions well, you can fix this for about $100-$200. Or, you can get a pro to do it probably for under a grand (shop it around).

I also saw where there was a previous repair. Judging from the amount of bottom paint it was done some time ago.

One of the first things you will want to do is to get rid of the bottom paint around the damaged area. No matter who does the repairs that paint has to go. Youâ€™re looking at about a 4 x 3 area that will have to be repaired. If you bring in a pro he will be able to better assess the damage and give you an accurate estimate, if the paint is gone. Donâ€™t worry about scuffing the gel coat; it will have to be ground off to expose the glass so a proper repair can be made.

cookscomp · Post by **cookscomp** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 1:29 pm

I bought the boat last fall. Haven't had it in the water yet. The damage was done by previous owners. One of the things I questioned was the thick resin around the damage area. It makes sense to me now that someone repaired that before and hit something again or did a poor job. I just wasn't sure if thats how these hulls are made(thick resin down there) or what. I think I'm handy enough to do the work and don't want to pay (cant afford to pay) to fix this. I'v got some mas epoxy in the garage left from a canoe repair. Agree the chine area will probably be hardest. Not sure yet if the epoxy is compatible with original glass job. I'll research some more and hope to do better work than previous fix. Thank you guys again.

jimbo36 · Post by **jimbo36** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:03 pm

Cooks, Definately a bad repair job that has let go. Did you look inside the hull, in this location, for any other repair. If this was a strike it would have needed to be reinforced from inside. If there is no evidence of a previous repair here, then the repair was exterior only. (this would be good) Before doing anything you need to assess if the inner layer of glass roving is sound. If not, this is where you repair begins. Hopefully, you are dealing with the exterior only. I noticed the heavy build of antifoul paint. If you plan on keeping this boat, now would be the time to strip the hull and, following this repair,(and others you may find once stripped) applying a barrier epoxy coat. MAS is agood choich as it does not produce any A-blush to contend with. Most of this work is labour intensive so it should not cost a lot of cash. Do yourself a big favor and do it right or you may end up with another bad patch job and discover more bottom issues down the line. Old boats are cheap, but need attention. But once properly repaired they can last and last. Jimbo36

cookscomp · Post by **cookscomp** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 8:24 pm

Thanks Jimbo. Today I pulled up the v berth plywood to get a look from inside the boat. I'm glad to say there is no evidence of repair on the inside. Even gladder to say I could see no light showing through from outside because I thought it would be a thin area there. Now I have to wait til next weekend to do anymore work. Maybe I'll post a pic of the progress and finished product if I'm proud of it. Tim

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Help repairing hull damage

Help repairing hull damage

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Hull damage