New Boat, New Member | *New Updates* Rot and Rust

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Wed Jul 30, 2008 5:49 pm

I would not use tiger wood

Difficult to dry with strong tendency to warp and check. Should be air dried slowly. Small movement.

Difficult to work. Moderate to severe blunting effect on cutters. Requires reduced angle cutting due to hard and soft layers and irregular grain. Pre-drilling is required for nailing, but holds screws well. Glues easily and finishes with a high natural polish.

And IMO it really look like it needs painting

Just my 2 cents

AuxiliaryComms · Post by **AuxiliaryComms** » Wed Jul 30, 2008 9:24 pm

Yeah got ahead of myself there. Saw the photo before I bothered to read the text. It's also not a whole lot cheaper than Teak like I thought.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Wed Jul 30, 2008 9:57 pm

Why not replace the bad wood then fiber glass it and forget it ?

AuxiliaryComms · Post by **AuxiliaryComms** » Wed Jul 30, 2008 10:03 pm

Like the Trojan folks, I'm a wood guy. I love the way it looks and I hate the glare off a fiberglass deck. I know it will be more work but I think it is worth it.

AuxiliaryComms · Post by **AuxiliaryComms** » Thu Jul 31, 2008 7:38 pm

I managed to get a little bit of time to go down and look at the boat and put a tarp over it.

First I'm noticing som rotted spots. How bad does rot have to be before it's a mater of replace, not repair. As I mentioned before a lot of the deck needs to go. Yesterday though, I noticed a spot in the cockpit side and some others. I've got a basic idea of how to check wood but I don't know what constitutes trouble or just an inconvenience. I also am not sure where I should be checking are there any common or critical spots to look at?

Second, the motor has all sorts of rust on it. I've been assured that it was still running but it needs some help bad. Can I just take parts off and go at it with wire brush and grinder or are some parts more sensitive?

Any guidance at this place would be great. I've got a tendancy to get too far ahead of myself and make the job look impossible.

AuxiliaryComms · Post by **AuxiliaryComms** » Fri Aug 01, 2008 3:50 pm

Is there some sort of 'Haynes Manual' for the Chrysler LM318? Is that what the service manual here is?

I've never taken a motor apart before and I'd really like to end up being able to put this one back together.

Any of you mechanics have any tips for keeping bolts/springs/gaskets/doodads in the right place with the right parts?

jwrape · Post by **jwrape** » Fri Aug 01, 2008 5:25 pm

AuxiliaryComms wrote:Is there some sort of 'Haynes Manual' for the Chrysler LM318? Is that what the service manual here is?

I've never taken a motor apart before and I'd really like to end up being able to put this one back together.

Any of you mechanics have any tips for keeping bolts/springs/gaskets/doodads in the right place with the right parts?

Well, rebuilding a motor is notthat hard for a mechanically inclined person, but for the novice, i would say you need guidance. The first rebuild I did ran, but not perfectly. Marine engines are built much different than your standard truck engine. A lot of the parts are the same but they are balanced and blueprinted to NOT vibrate and they last a lot longer and deliver much more power than your standard crate engine.

Anyway, as for keeping up with all your bolts and pieces, i use zip lock bags and write on the bag where the bolts and parts go. For the larger pieces use boxes and label everything that you are not familiar where it goes. This is a tremedous help when putting it all back together. Good Luck!

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