Trojan Boat Forum

Looking for the 411 on fuse panel replacement. I am the new owner of a 79' F28 and have discovered that most of the electrical gremlins are in the fuse panel. The fuse terminals where the fuse is held and the point where the wire is attached is a two piece design riveted together and over 38 years these two pieces have lost contact. I noticed at least three of mine were hot at both ends of the fuse but dead at the wire going to the switch. Then I noticed an apparent previous owners repair where he drilled thru the rivet and used a screw to tighten the connection at three other locations.

Ideally, I would like to replace the fuse panel with a like size breaker panel, if one exists. I did a search on the subject and found a few older posts discussing this same idea with mixed results. I wanted to bring the subject back up to see if anyone has attempted this lately and if anyone has found a suitable breaker panel for the space we have to wok with.

If not, I really don't mind going back with new fuse blocks, but I would prefer a better design than the original. The two piece riveted connectors are prone to failure and it is only a matter of time for a new one of the same style to begin losing connectivity.

Don't worry I plan to call the Trojan Guru Bob, I just wanted to reach out to the rest of the Trojan World as I am sure there are many creative geniuses keeping these awesome old boats afloat.

the old tube fuse bar eh. Yeah they suck especially for high current draw such as bilge blower(s). Not sure about rivet getting loose but they will heat up and become less conductive and heat more till fuse gives. All can rewired to a blue water fuse panel with the newer type fuses but will be a pain. I have a whole panel for the f28 from a parts boat. You will fine that when you pull the whole panel the backside looks screwed together and is but glues also, it is a pain.

Just for the fun of it in the high voltage locker I have a master breaker box and a sub box using Siemen Breakers this gave me plenty of extra circuits to use for 120 V. Sorry I digress this is not the 12v fuses. I put bluewater controls and fuse for controlling the bilge pumps. Alas the bilge blower fuses must be watched.

Good luck with it I just emery off the old fuse clamps and squeeze them together ergo they make better contact.

If I attached it right you can see the back of my fuse panel. In one circuit you can see one of the previous repairs, it is a very small nut and bolt sticking thru the back side. If the nut is loose both sides of the fuse are hot but the wire is not, tighten the nut and she works again. There are a couple other circuits done this way with different types of screws. I wonder if some work with the emory cloth as you mentioned and a drop of solder between the two pieces of the terminal would ensure a better connection. Maybe better than drilling and screwing all 12 terminals.

I have something like this in mind, if I run out of other projects. Thanks for your reply!

Designed mine on New Wire Marine website.

lunker I'll check them out. Do you have any pics of your setup?

Lance F28 wrote:

F28 Fuse Panel.jpg

If I attached it right you can see the back of my fuse panel. In one circuit you can see one of the previous repairs, it is a very small nut and bolt sticking thru the back side. If the nut is loose both sides of the fuse are hot but the wire is not, tighten the nut and she works again. There are a couple other circuits done this way with different types of screws. I wonder if some work with the emory cloth as you mentioned and a drop of solder between the two pieces of the terminal would ensure a better connection. Maybe better than drilling and screwing all 12 terminals.

I have something like this in mind, if I run out of other projects.

ZBEP8-91010.jpg

Thanks for your reply!

I would move fuse panel replacement to the top of your list.

It has P-Dogg, I hate electrical problems and I think this will solve a bunch of them in one whack.