Trojan Boat Forum

Hi Guys. New Trojan F32 boat owner here. I will be replacing both impellers on the chrysler 360 engines as soon as it warms up in WNY. I haven't ever done these. Does whole pump need to be removed to replace these impellers. I am open to all advice. Thank you.

Here is a link for the common H20 Pump in a LM 318... Original Chrysler PN 2847631 I think... They should have info on a 360 pump. (If you cant see the PN on the pump, I've found the second link and their website handy to find PNs.)

https://www.pumpvendor.com/Sherwood_D65_D-65_parts.html

https://www.marinepartsexpress.com/Chry ... 874-g5.htm

After doing the major rebuild on a bench, I would highly recommend a complete removal for the first time to give a proper inspection of all parts, even if just replacing impellers. You can familiar with which pieces your are going to drop!

Maybe every other year it is easy enough to do installed, but for me having a spare pump I will always do on a bench and rotate one in and out of service.... (Removing the obstacle of ''pressure' to get on the water for the day always makes things go smoother!!!, but then again with out pressure you cant make diamonds so what do I know!)

-Tim

Due to do mine again soon.

I have never fully removed the pumps (Sherwood in my case, depends on vintage of the boat), but am (or at least was last time I did it) still flexible enough to crawl in beside the engines. Stbd is no big deal as long as you don't mind sitting on your batteries, port is a bit more of a challenge.

For my pumps, impeller is Sierra 18-3047 Kit, or 18-3061 impeller by itself, or Sherwood 10615 (or with K for kit) as of 2018.

I tend to unbolt pump from mounting arm and pull off belt so pump 'floats' on connected hoses. Then I can get at fasteners that hold pump halves together better. Separate pump halves. Then - this is key - examine old impeller to confirm it is 100% intact or if you have the joy of inspecting the rest of your cooling system to find missing parts!!! Once all is good, install the new impeller making sure the vanes are all folding the right way (given that rotation direction differs on each engine), and it's greased with something to make sure it can spin dry for a few seconds without damage (I tend to use dish soap). Reassemble the pump halves, reconnect the belt, and reattach to the mounting arm ensuring appropriate tension on the belt.

Once launched, or if this is done after already on the water... crank the engine up and look for leaks at the pump, or temp issues on the console.