F36 window frames...no paint?

Struts and Rudders · Post by **Struts and Rudders** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 3:45 pm

Hello all,
We have been working on the window frames in the F 36.

I am considering stripping the aluminum and cleaning it to create the matte finish you see often on commercial aluminum boats.
It will be that white looking aluminum seen on tanker truck on the highway. It is a chemical process and seems to need little if any service to maintain the look.
I propose to do all the aluminum framing, inside and out.
I do not want to paint it to just have to sand and paint it again someday.

The boat will be getting a complete alexseal snow white paint job with black bottom paint and boot strip.
Dark black windows
No bowrail
No exposed exterior teak.
Going for a clean easy to keep look...

Your constructive thoughts please?

SRD
1980 F36

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 4:51 pm

No bowrail

Tell me more....
Do you not plan to anchor, normally or in an emergency?
What about docking security for the crew forward?
How will you hang your forward fenders?
What are you replacing the teak strips just aft of the fuel fills with?

akwalker · Post by **akwalker** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 5:13 pm

ready123 wrote:No bowrail
Tell me more....
Do you not plan to anchor, normally or in an emergency?
What about docking security for the crew forward?
How will you hang your forward fenders?
What are you replacing the teak strips just aft of the fuel fills with?

I would agree, bow rails are more functional than cosmetic. I think you should re consider eliminating them. Those teak strips aft of the fuel fill and pump out port keep an awful lot of water out of my cockpit. Don't eliminate them either, IMO.

Struts and Rudders · Post by **Struts and Rudders** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 5:29 pm

Hello and thanks for your reply..

I do plan to anchor out quite often, I will access bow area thru forward hatch to release safety binder on anchor windless with foot operated controls, flybridge controls and lower helm controls.
This is typical arrangement on custom boats.

Forward fenders to be hung from cleats at midship
Deck mate will hold on to railing along the house side until were in the slip.

Will be replacing the teak strips along walkaround with fiberglass pultrusion board.

The original post was about the window frame finish...does anyone have an opinion on that issue?

Guiding us back to subject as softly as possible,
SRD

TADTOOMUCH · Post by **TADTOOMUCH** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 6:32 pm

Have my F-32 all done in Imron. Black window Frames and bootstripe all painted black. Top and sides are Hatteras white. Bottom is Awlgrip Black Ablative Paint. Kept all the handrails. Very important on Lake Michigan. I used Starboard to replace the teak step on the gunnel and the teak strip aft of the fuel fill fitting. also replaced teak accents inside the side panels with starboard white. Had all cleats powdercoated white. Look at avatar. It's been five years and still looks new. Does not require wax but I do it anyway just to help keep clean.

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 7:30 pm

I think that may look pretty good (window frames ) worst case you could always paint it later .

Getting rid of the teak ? I say go for it .BTW I don't believe the F36 has the strip aft the fuel fills like the F32 , no sign of my boat ever having them and no issues at all . something to trip over anyway

Bow rail , as you know 99% of the charter sport fisherman in Carolinas don't have them . And it sure looks clean with out them . With that said going out to the front deck using the forward hatch is a pain how about going thru the V Birth and a rainy stormy day ? I personally could go with out , but with graceful crew of mine Its a must .

Alex-seal ? heard good things

You now have my 2 cents .

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 10:15 pm

Struts and Rudders wrote:The original post was about the window frame finish...does anyone have an opinion on that issue?

My opinion is that it will look much less classy than black on white of the original layout. I think it will get lost or glint in the sun and be distracting to the eye and disturb the classic lines of the vessel.
Of course some may like the brighter contrast in between dark window and white fiberglass... I prefer the two colours rather than 3.

I do plan to anchor out quite often, I will access bow area thru forward hatch to release safety binder on anchor windless with foot operated controls, flybridge controls and lower helm controls.
This is typical arrangement on custom boats.

In my experience I have found many less than ideal circumstances anchoring where I would want my crew to have the security of the rails while on the bow. What about when removing grass or mud from the anchor before getting underway, or do you run with the grass ball?

Forward fenders to be hung from cleats at midship

You tie your lines off to that cleat also? Fender adjustment?
I have also needed fenders forward of midships in a position that would not align with a cleat which need to be positioned rapidly which is easily done when slid along the rail.
I will agree that in simple usage mainly underway no bow rail may not be a problem... I can think of many uses where I would want them: locks, busy docks, slips, rafting with other boats, anchoring in heavy weather, night time bow activity.....

foofer b · Post by **foofer b** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 6:06 am

Struts and Rudders wrote:Hello and thanks for your reply..

I do plan to anchor out quite often, I will access bow area thru forward hatch to release safety binder on anchor windless with foot operated controls, flybridge controls and lower helm controls.

Guiding us back to subject as softly as possible,
SRD

What if it is raining or everyone is wet?

Commissionpoint · Post by **Commissionpoint** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 10:20 am

Windowframes: Get them powder coated if you don't want to be a slave to paint.

Bowrails: Don't be silly. Its impractical (and possibly dangerous) to remove them. Whats your insurance company gonna say?

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 1:25 pm

Whats your insurance company gonna say ? Nothing I would Guess

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 1:50 pm

Let me add , for those talking about the classic look , SDR is going for the custom look .

prowlersfish · Post by **prowlersfish** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 1:50 pm

Let me add , for those talking about the classic look , SDR is going for the custom look .

Struts and Rudders · Post by **Struts and Rudders** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 3:48 pm

Hello again and thanks for the healthy discussion.

Not backing up on the bowrail...it is gone already.
Not worried about insurance company...most who write in the carolina's are accustom to no bow rail.
Actually got the idea from a F36 currently in Wanchese NC.

The much oversized and automatic Maxwell Liberty 1700 windless will be able to be operated from inside the bow hatch if needed. Raw water washdown spigot will be located on bow as well.

Not much of a foul weather sailor so you will most likely find us doing something else when the weather gets rough.
This boat is for inland coastal cruising in the waterway and sounds, never going offshore and never going fishing. We have a larger boat for offshore.

We considered powdercoating but keep coming back to the same issue, it comes off after awhile. No matter who does it or with what type or brand of paint, it gets chipped and comes off.

Anodizing is also being considered...but still it degrades over time.

Either way we intend to do silver / grey or white to match the hull and topside paint. Black window frames looks nice...it is just too hard to keep for me.

Thanks again for the engaging conversation and points well made,
SRD
1980 F36

Commissionpoint · Post by **Commissionpoint** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 4:30 pm

Struts and Rudders wrote: We considered powdercoating but keep coming back to the same issue, it comes off after awhile. No matter who does it or with what type or brand of paint, it gets chipped and comes off.

Anodizing is also being considered...but still it degrades over time.

Everything degrades if you give it enough time. There is no permanent solution.

ready123 · Post by **ready123** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 4:32 pm

Commissionpoint wrote:Everything degrades if you give it enough time. There is no permanent solution.

Agreed... so ease of maintenance should be high up on the list.