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Lawman wrote:I stripped down my swim platform with a belt sander then a palm sander last spring and applied three coats of Sikkens Cetol natural teak, it brought out all of the grain and still looks good. Hopefully it'll last two or three seasons before I have to redo it.
Just a tip Lawman, If you hit your swim platform with 220 every spring and give it one coat of Cetol, you will never have to strip it again and it will look better and better every year.
jimbo36 wrote:....If you hit your swim platform with 220 every spring and give it one coat of Cetol, you will never have to strip it again and it will look better and better every year.
+1
Don't use high gloss, too slippery for the platform IMO.
She was a 1969 36 ft wooden beauty with big blue 440s that we'll miss forever.
And thanks to the gang, 2012 Trojan Boater Of The Year
jimbo36 wrote:....If you hit your swim platform with 220 every spring and give it one coat of Cetol, you will never have to strip it again and it will look better and better every year.
+1
Don't use high gloss, too slippery for the platform IMO.
here is an example of the Sikkens Natural Teak. I used this on the swim deck on my Cruisers, 3 coats of the Natural followed up with 3 coats of the Gloss Clear, looks great and really holds up well.
sgskad wrote:Hart
here is an example of the Sikkens Natural Teak. I used this on the swim deck on my Cruisers, 3 coats of the Natural followed up with 3 coats of the Gloss Clear, looks great and really holds up well.
Love the Natural, but as others have said, have to reinforce that Gloss should not be used on a platform. Too slippery, too dangerous. If needed, hit it with a 4th or 5th coat of Natural.
sgskad wrote:Hart
here is an example of the Sikkens Natural Teak. I used this on the swim deck on my Cruisers, 3 coats of the Natural followed up with 3 coats of the Gloss Clear, looks great and really holds up well.
Love the Natural, but as others have said, have to reinforce that Gloss should not be used on a platform. Too slippery, too dangerous. If needed, hit it with a 4th or 5th coat of Natural.
i have a question about this too. the PO used gloss on the platform and i have to say, when wet, it's as slippery as dog drool. i HATE the stuff. there are some areas that are actually bare as the stuff has flaked off over the last year. a woman at my marina that refinishes wood tells me that the platform has only one coat on it judging by the amount of cetol that has come off. i am not able to remove the platform and wanted to know what i can do next season while she is either in the water or when she is hauled in the spring. i'd actually like to strip it down to bare teak as i think that is the safest of all. having said that, if i go ahead and refinish, what exactly do i use to make it safer?
thanks
aaron
1982 F-36 TRI CABIN ENTERPRISE
PARKSIDE MARINA IN MIDDLE RIVER, MD aaronbocknek@gmail.com
On a bare teak platform I use 3 to 4 coats of "Sikkens Cetol Marine". It looks great and lasts for years. Best of all, when wet from rain or waves you can still walk on it without slipping. The "Sikkens Marine Light" or "Sikkens Marine Natural" works just as well.
Usually after 3 or 4 years, I'll scuff it with a fine cut paper and give it another coat which will last another couple years.
Last edited by Paul on Sat Nov 03, 2012 4:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Paul
"Cruise Control" 1978 F-26HT
"No Control" 2012 9' Grand RIB
On a bare teak platform I use 3 to 4 coats of "Sikkens Cetol Marine". It looks great and lasts for years. Best of all, when wet from rain or waves you can still walk on it without slipping. The "Sikkens Marine Light" or "Sikkens Marine Natural" works just as well.
Usually after 3 or 4 years, I'll scuff it with a fine cut paper and give it another coat which will last another couple years.
paul, and anyone else out there, what i'll do is take a pic of my platform as it is now. that way, you all can look it over and the guide me from there. there are some bare spots on it, right down to the natural wood. i have no problems with bare teak as it's fairly easy to care for, even when it turns grey. the stuff that's on there now is really glossy and like i said, it's very slippery when wet .
1982 F-36 TRI CABIN ENTERPRISE
PARKSIDE MARINA IN MIDDLE RIVER, MD aaronbocknek@gmail.com
2 PO's ago, (before Nancy and John) someone really liked the Cetol when my boat resided in Canada. So much so, that its dry weight is probably a good 200 lbs more now than it was when it was built, all in Cetol. Seriously folks, these ppl must have had major Sikkens stock holdings or something. Its on everything. And its on there pretty thick.
I have been able to take two things away from this as the last Trojan had none and I am able to compare. One is that on the interior wood and panels its friggin great on these old F boats. Its been on there since before me, and before Nancy & John, so that makes it a good 15 years old anyways. My interior wood looks great, almost bristol, and for a 35 year old boat it puts a lot of new stuff and almost anything of its own vintage to shame. Second is just what others have said. Don't put the gloss on your swim platform. When it gets wet, its friggin slicker than whale $hit.
It sounds like Aaron and I am in about the same spot when it comes to the swim platform. Mine too is chipping up in places and is ready for a refinish. I am also thinking I am gonna just go old skewl on it and strip it down, brighten it, and start oiling it. For both safety, and appearance I have arrived at this decision. I'll put the extra work into the platform every season to keep it nice and leave everything else in the Cetol cocoon.
1978 F-32 "Eclipse"
Merc 305 SBC's
1.52:1 Borg Warners
1983 Correct Craft
Commander 351 Ford (PCM)
1:1 Borg Warner
There are 350 different varieties of shark, not counting loan or pool.
sgskad wrote:Hart
here is an example of the Sikkens Natural Teak. I used this on the swim deck on my Cruisers, 3 coats of the Natural followed up with 3 coats of the Gloss Clear, looks great and really holds up well.
Love the Natural, but as others have said, have to reinforce that Gloss should not be used on a platform. Too slippery, too dangerous. If needed, hit it with a 4th or 5th coat of Natural.
sorry guys didnt wanna step on any toes so early in my membership
you guys are right about slippery when wet, this off season I plan on a light sand, a coat of clear, some sikkens non slip grit followed up with another coat of clear.
sgskad wrote:you guys are right about slippery when wet, this off season I plan on a light sand, a coat of clear, some sikkens non slip grit followed up with another coat of clear.
Still with the clear? Why push it? Bottom line - please be safe. Maybe test out the theory before you commit to it. Take a piece of reasonable sized scrap in your basement - apply the same # cetol coats you have on the platform, then clear (to what you have now), then sand / add nonslip / add clear as you plan to do. Then try it out and see what happens.
If the results don't TOTALLY THRILL YOU (lets face it - a sample on a 2x2 piece of plywood is going to give more traction than the grid on your swim platform), don't do it on the boat. My recommendation : try to sand the gloss off, and add another coat or two of Natural. OR if you want to use the nonskid, sand a bit, but embed the nonskid in Natural (not Gloss).
On a bare teak platform I use 3 to 4 coats of "Sikkens Cetol Marine". It looks great and lasts for years. Best of all, when wet from rain or waves you can still walk on it without slipping. The "Sikkens Marine Light" or "Sikkens Marine Natural" works just as well.
Usually after 3 or 4 years, I'll scuff it with a fine cut paper and give it another coat which will last another couple years.
paul, and anyone else out there, what i'll do is take a pic of my platform as it is now. that way, you all can look it over and the guide me from there. there are some bare spots on it, right down to the natural wood. i have no problems with bare teak as it's fairly easy to care for, even when it turns grey. the stuff that's on there now is really glossy and like i said, it's very slippery when wet .
My platform has pretty much been treated, and pretty much looks, like the one from Paul's pic. I get the similar longevity with the Cetol, and I have only used Gloss on my bow pulpit (we never stand on it) and the little water deflectors on the deck. I hate raw, greyed, teak. Yes - there is nothing wrong with it and some people love it, but when I think of wooden boats I associate with the old varnished mahogany launches like the old Greavette's, Duke's, Dichburn's, and Minett-Shield's - it's gotta shine and it's gotta be purdy.
SO, looking forward to your pics. When I redid my platforms (this boat's and the previous one's), I basically ended up sanding down to bare teak and applying Cetol from there. Strippers were just too sloppy and hit 'n miss. With the right sanding setup, it doesn't take much to sane them down. And all that is really significant is the top surface... the slipperiness of the sides or bottom of the slats is much less of a concern, then the slipperiness of the surface you are standing on.
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