Trojan Boat Forum

I'm rebuilding the cabin walls on the upper cabin, 42 Ft 1969, previously, there was some Styrofoam SM poorly installed between a sheet plastic, similar to Lexan outside skin and 5/16 mahogany ply inside. I would like to know if I should allow any airflow or airspace when I re-install the SM. I'll use a straw foam to set in the SM. I would also like to add some acoustic fiberglass panel in the extra space, is there a chance of moisture buildup?
Taking pictures as I go...

Robert ,That Styrofoam sounds like something thats been added by a previous owner . And what do you mean by a "Lexan outside skin " outside the hull ?

Do you have some photos ?

If you are looking for a better thin insulation let me suggest this product:

[urlhttp://www.teksupply.com/contractor/supplies/p ... 01382.html][/url]

I have used it for years in all kinds of applications from metal building construction, under concrete slab insulation, and on my own boat. It is fantastic stuff. User friendly and will not absorb water. The R value and UV blocking qualities are icing on the cake.

I've attached a picture of the rebuilt top of the transom and wall taken inside the cabin. The 'Lexan' is material used for the outer skin. Thanks.

That photo clears up a lot That foam is not factory for sure, I don't think the plastic is ether . Not sure what Trojan used (canvas ? ) But I believe there was a gap at the bottom when it was built .

I would leave the foam out , unless you have a reason for it .

I'd like to get some insulation in there since we may live aboard next (Canadian) winter, plus the fiberglass will add some sound baffling. Thanks.

aaronbocknek wrote:is that the aft deck? i believe the 'lexan' that you are talking about is the 'weather skirting' (it dresses the area around the railings) that is used to semi enclose the aft deck of flush deck motor yachts.

I see, I still want to insulate it, if you have any tips. Cheers.

prowlersfish wrote:That photo clears up a lot That foam is not factory for sure, I don't think the plastic is ether . Not sure what Trojan used (canvas ? ) But I believe there was a gap at the bottom when it was built .

I would leave the foam out , unless you have a reason for it .

The boat is a Shepherd, the Canadian subsidiary of Trojan, from what I have seen.
It looks like this area was originally open air.
http://www.shepherdboats.com/Boat_Model ... Colour.pdf page 6

RobertS wrote:

aaronbocknek wrote:is that the aft deck? i believe the 'lexan' that you are talking about is the 'weather skirting' (it dresses the area around the railings) that is used to semi enclose the aft deck of flush deck motor yachts.

I see, I still want to insulate it, if you have any tips. Cheers.

Arron is right, there used to be weather skirting or weather boards around your aft deck. Paul is right as well about the gap at the bottom. The gap is actually a important design feature. It would let water drain off the aft deck in a seaway and also allow the wood to breath and dry out. Without this gap you need to make it completely waterproof or the wood will start to rot on the inside from standing rain water. Just from what I see if you insulate the lower part I don't think you are going to see much in the way of heat retention if you still have the canvas enclosure above it.

Good luck, I love old wooden boats, I just can't afford one.

summer storm wrote:.....I don't think you are going to see much in the way of heat retention if you still have the canvas enclosure above it....

+1

Can Edit but cannot Delete

Repair Pictures Posted
http://www.trojanrestore.com
Work done from May to October, till it got too cold.
We are still working on the site, comments welcome.
We'll link back here as we move on with it all. (there's just 2 of us)
We will continue the boat work this spring and hope to get in the water for June.

Our first boat and I'm using a lot of my own processes and materials from my elevator retrofitting, house renovating and furniture making days.
I have a 48X96" ShopBot CNC router and cut out the transom 'cap' and corners up to the cabin entrance with CAD so far, this is a complex shape and can be used in different ways, or scaled to other boats,I can make this file available.

Pictures of: (Mostly ongoing) Transom repairs, deep water penetration and rot around the entire aft deck and tops of state room outer walls. Mahogany and the rotten oak was removed and capped with 3/4" Crezon and all was coated with marine epoxy. I used polyurethane foam to fill the voids.
Cabin framing repairs, fiberglass damage and rot removal, deck stripping and refinishing

I am curious if you are removing the entire rotted planks and rebuilding stringers and ribs ? it looks from your photos that you have dug out the rot and filled the areas with epoxy.. if so, is that structurally safe? I don't know and I am asking, I know nothing about wood boats

gettaway wrote:I am curious if you are removing the entire rotted planks and rebuilding stringers and ribs ? it looks from your photos that you have dug out the rot and filled the areas with epoxy.. if so, is that structurally safe? I don't know and I am asking, I know nothing about wood boats

Sorry to say, this is not the appropriate way to repair a wooden boat. The only right way is to replace all rotted wood inside and out. This repair will not last long as the rotted wood will continue to rot away. The epoxy fill will only add to this rot as it will hold moisture in. I have restored 4 wood boats including the one I am working on.