Trojan Boat Forum

Has anyone used Meguiars 67 One Step Compound? If so what was your experience and recommendations? Planning to use it with an orbital and the top is pretty heavily oxidized.

I haven't used that product but if it's heavily oxidized, you'll probably need to do a multi-stage polishing starting off with a coarser compound, and then ending with a finishing compound before waxing. If you don't, it might look good at first but the finish will likely decay quickly and need to be done again. Doesn't hurt to try though, except for your arms!

I just did our 11 meter from head to toe and it was heavily oxidated. The hull not so bad. On that I used a medium grit buffing compound using the wool pad at 1400 rpm, then as it dried, I ramped up the speed to 1800 until it buffed dry. You know you cut it enough when you can see a slightly hazy reflection. Then after that, I finished with a very soft orbital foam pad with finness it. Used same methodology, use a very small amount and work an area of 2 ft X 2 ft. Buff till dry at 1800. You will feel the foam pad glide over the glass with little resistance. If it starts to stick, you did not buff enough with the heaveier grit and the finnesse starts to build up vs cut. This stuff does not really cut, but polishes. Then I used collinite fleet past wax. 2 coats and Looks like new.

For the top deck, different story. I had to wet sand 3 levels. Started with 1500 grit, then with 2000, then 3000. Then buffed as noted above. And no kidding, I bet I have over 50 hrs of sanding, rubbing and waxing, but the old dull chalky deck now looks like new. Well worth the effort. And after all that workout, I think I can now tear a quarter in half....bare handed.


Note; if you use the fleet past wax, as many others have said, DO NOT let it dry. If you do, you will be happy you now are strong as an ox with all the buffing cause that stuff adheres to the glass like cement. I wiped it on in a small area, then wiped first with a micro fiber pad, then followed with another. The micros build up wax after a bit so you need to keep swapping for new, but it polishes like a dream.

Hope yours turns out well. Key is to buff it well enough to let the finesse it give you the final gloss. The wax only protects, does not give it the gloss. Let the compounds work for you.

I thought about suggesting wet sanding but am a little hesitant to recommend given the age of the boat hence the possible condition of the gel, a visual inspection by someone who knows what to look for would be a safe exercise. I'm also a little leery about someone wet sanding that is unfamiliar with the process and possible consequences but the method mentioned above is sound.

Thanks for all of the good advice. Looks like I have my work cutout for me. But it sounds like the results will justify the effort.

Big D, yes, caution on the wet sanding, with that fine of grit however you remove such a small amount of gel it is really only the oxidized material which you want off anyway. if you see a dark shadow below your oxidization, you are through the gel, already, so don't sand of course, well actually you will be sanding anyway to prepare for a coat or two of paint.... That is another story.

Most gel coats are quite thick, and here is my theory on that. If it is really chalked up, it has not been buffed or sanded out enough, to worry about wearing through with sanding first. If it is not that chalked up, you dont need to sand then. Either way, if you want the glow and gleam and are willing to put the energy into it, you will not be sorry ( sore? Absolutely) but not sorry. I wish I took before and after pictures..... Looks like a totally new boat, and not one spot of thin gel.

And, I will NEVER let it get that bad again....... (Bought it that way) waxing regularly is the key to keeping it that way. Keep those pores of the gel sealed and she will sparkle for you for a long time before you may need to just polish lightly with finesse it, or Perfect it, polish.

Send before and after pictures if you can. Wish I did.... Enjoy the intimate time you will have with the buffer....

Any procedural advice for buffing under the windows on that 6" wide strip? Tape it? Use the edge of the buffer etc? No clue and trying not to hate buffing and waxing.

On thin areas, i used the edge of the buffing wheel as you noted, with both wool and foam. however you will find nooks and crannies that you will need to do by hand. There are some smaller diameter wheels you can also get online that let you get into tighter places, but you will still need to detail by hand the tight corners and edges, you will also find when your wheel makes contact with the stainless steel, it will polish those items nicely, however the polished stainless steel will 'stain' your compond, no worries tho, simply wipe this off with a wet rag and keep going.

It is a pain, but if you stick with it, you will not regret it.

Thanks jimmy! Im really going to try this year!

Glad to know there are more crazy people out there willing to put the time into this. And, once you have her shimmering, the washing time is minutes as the dirt, grime dust and bird droppings rinse right off with little effort. When you need to rub the dirt and it appears to leave a slight stain in the gel, time for another coat or two of wax.

Post pictures if you can.