Trojan Boat Forum

I installed the distributor and new coil. Can’t get it to fire up. Bypassed and removed the ballast resistors. What wires need to be connected to coil along with the wires from the distributor?

So removing the ballast resistor did you have to install jumpers across the connectors or just unplug the connectors. What about removing the ignition module? Do you just unplug it or do you need to do some other wiring?

Yes I was planning to replace the distributor in the factory electronic ignition package. Just curious on what or if I need to bypass in the old electronic system and how to do it. I was planning to install a pertronix distributor D241800 or D241801 with flamethrower 40111 coil

thanks

Has anyone replaced their distributors on the M360 engines? What had to be done with wiring as far as the ballast resistor or any other ignition components?

I have two Chrysler 360's that have new Edelbrock carbs, all new ignition parts-yes all, new fuel tanks and lines, new fuel filters, new plugs and wires. I start them up and they run fine. I take the boat out for a 30 minute run and they run fine. I get into the harbor and at idle-700 rpm, they both...

Are both batteries used when starting engines on F-32? After starting is one battery a house battery and the other for the engines or does each engine have its own battery after starting? I read somewhere that the ignition key and solenoid in the magic black box joins both batteries for starting but...

The old alternator is a prestolite ANE 5202YS or Chrysler 3527502 single wire with B+ terminal (Battery+) and B- terminal ( Battery -). The new alternator is a single wire Arco 63 amp New 63 amp 12 volt marine alternator Internal regulator with negative ground Self exciting 1 wire connection Interna...

I am replacing the old alternator on my F32 with 360 Chryslers. The old alternator had the B+ wire and B- wires and an external voltage regulator. The new alternator has an internal voltage regulator. Has anyone replaced theirs and what do you do with the wires at the new alternator and do you remov...

I changed the regulators because one of them showed a failure based on test with a meter and the other had melted the material inside. I also had a similar issue with the ignition module that had melted all the material inside it. My new voltage regulators do have an adjustable rheostat on the back ...

I installed two new series 27 batteries and two new voltage regulators in my F32. Upon initial start of engines both volt meters showed 14.4 volts and then I shut them down assuming all was well. I have an on shore smart charger and they charged over night. The next day I started the engines and the...

Well here in the People’s Republic of Michganistan, our governor that girl from Michigan, has limited us from even going from home to boat and prohibiting marinas from opening so we can’t even slip our boats. Meanwhile everything is paid for but no way to enjoy it. Good luck getting re-elected Gretc...

Come to think of it, It never vibrates when I back out of the slip so I think all is normal. I am going to check the cutlass bearing when it comes out for the season just to see if there is any movement out of spec.

I never thought about the forward momentum. Also if the prop is slowly still turning forward and then you shift to reverse that would accentuate the problem. I will test again with sitting still with no prop turning and see if I notice the vibration. It only lasts a couple seconds and then it is all...

I am running stock props. I will check throttle travel. I am still working on the adjustments. Seems like I get the lower helm correct then the flybridge controls won't pull back to idle. I have the cables adjusted as short as they will go so I can get to idle but that may be robbing me of full open...

I just replaced my Carter AFB's with new Edelbrock 1409's Before my WOT was about 3,000 on my Chrysler 360's now it is about 3700. Is this typical or can I get more with some adjustments? Don't need more but just wondering.