Haul out maintenance suggestions while my Trojan is dry

[dollarbill1963]

I have to replace my Instatrim Trim Tabs with new cylinders on my 1978 F30 (they are leaking hydraulic fluid so I am thinking the O rings are gone.. time to do it anyway probably)

BUT... while it is out of the water, what else should I do besides what I am planning.

Inspect Bottom Paint (bottom is 2 seasons old)
Inspect / Caulk all thru hulls...
Inspect Props and rudders

What else do I need to look at so I can get the most out of my haul out bill. The Marina has a self service yard and the daily rate for the first 30 days is pretty reasonable so I want to get as much done.

Thanks....

[JuiceClark]

Hey DB, Glad you were able to find some values on that site. Sure luv them leds...run forever with no juice use.

Last time I pulled my boat, the two things I forgot that needed attention were the gasket thingies in the struts and the packing in the rudder shafts looked like it was about 20 years old. If I remember correctly, they were both pretty easy and cheap to replace.


Tony
Ft. Myers, FL

[rossjo]

Replace the plastic Thru Hulls w/ Bronze (below water) or Stainless (above Water Line)

Replace Gate Valves (like your home's outdoor faucet) with proper bronze shutoff valves.

Check/Replace bad scuppers, and check pipe fittings to filter boxes. Then check all cooling hoses inside the boat (replace with Shields hoses if 10+ years old!!!!!!!!!!). Easy to avoid sinking now! Use Shields Type 316 Stainles T-Bolt clamps on all water and exhaust fittings (2 clamps per connection) to avoid rusting/failure and potential sinking.

How are your exhaust hoses? You can't remove/replace these while the boat is afloat. If 20+ years old, it may be time ... replace with Shields Wet Exhaust Hose and Shields Type 316 Stainless T-Bolt clamps (no worm gear hose clamps!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)

How are the struts? They are light and corrode easily, especially if you have shore power or anyone has ever neglected the zincs.

Repack stuffing boxes (shafts and rudders) - or replace with dry seal boxes.

New bottom paint? Touch up at a minimum!

Fix/replace water line stripes (also hard to do in the water).

Check trims tabs to see if they are mounted/sealed properly. The screws may need to be carefully removed, 5200'd and re-attached. Avoid the quick dry 5200 if you can, but it does work (just doesn;t last as long).

Pull the props and have a shop tune them - unless they look perfect ... easy to do now, $300 to do later ... At the bare minimum, sharpen leading edges with a file from the back side if they truly are/look perfect!

Take photos and dimensions for future reference (these are hard to get when you're in the water and want to play with props, etc.)

Clean the bottom to perfection and consider one of Tony's (JuiceClark) boat bunkers to keep it clean moving forward. I'm building one soon ...

Have a cold beverage and anticipate how much better/safer everything will run in the Spring!