Trojan Boat Forum

sorry for the delayed response. Just got back from vacation. If you have an overboard discharge all you would have to do is add a "y" valve in line before your macerator. run one leg of the y valve to to the macerator and the other to a hose leading to the deck pumpout.

Thanks Todd. Can you post a picture of where your deck fitting is located? I would like to try and get mine in the same location.
Mike

Here you go Mike.
Left the hose long for now.


Y valve in bilge


One leg leads from the y valve, through the stringer under the head , through the cabinet thats behind the head and then up through the deck.


The other hose off the y valve goes to the macerator and then through the seacock. (and yes I do know im missing the hose clamps )

Todd,

I see you have the same fresh watter plastic fitting system as I do.

Over the years, I have seen a few fail.

This last few months I have experienced MULTIPLE failures of these fittings.

FYI, they are easily replaced with brass, however the brass fuerle is ont used. Instead a plastic fuerle is used in conjunction with a stainless piece that fits into the tip of the hose.

Also, I have seen several hose failures where the hose is exposed to UV light .

The problem with these leaks is that if they go un noticed, you can lose all of your fresh water while underway or on the hook before you realize the problem.

Boy wouldn't NOW be a great time to simply replace those fittings?

RWS

Thanks so much Todd. My wife and I really appreciate your help. I don't have that tank shown in the picture. What is that for? I only have the small holding tank in the V berth under the bed. Just curious if I may need to add that too.
Mike

I think your refering to the small white tank next to the valve. that's the accumulator tank for the vacuflush head. if you have a standard head you don't need one. my holding tank is below the berth too. I think its a 40 gal tank.

RWS , I think I'm going to run all new lines and fittings. the watts brand at home depot also makes the sea tek fittings that you find at jamestown dist and they appear to be very similar if you ever need a quick fix. found a few places online that I can get the seatek marine version cheaper than the watts version. my biggest issue is I have not hound one store that has all of the fittings that I need. since they make various sizes that are very close (the metric size will fit the standard size and work for a short time then blow. found this out first hand!). some stores are not very specific on exactly what your getting. I want to order everything from the same place.

Ok, I don't have the vacu-flush head, so that explains it. I hope you don't mind if we have some more questions for you in the future. We've learned a lot about this boat over the last year, but haven't gone through everything yet like you guys have. The other pictures you have posted from your project have been extremely helpful as well. Take care.
--Mike--

Todd, I've found the equivalent WATTS brand for all the fittings now including the smaller sink supply lines if you want to add shutoff valves.

I think I posted the parts #'s here but have them written down if you need them. They work great, have not had one leak yet.

Well I'm still at it! Ugly ass brown stripes are finally gone!!!!!! I just sanded down the entire hull with 220 grit paper. My second gallon of Awlgrip wax remover solvent arrived yesterday so I can now start prepping the topsides for primer. Just Pulled the first engine down off the shelves. Trying to get motovated to start tearing it down but I need to figure a good way to video the tear down so I can put it back together later!

looking good.

any plans to do anything with the rubrail?

the backing wood strips on mune are deteriorating badly.

RWS

RWS,
I plan on recaulking the rub rail after I paint. Its actually one of the few things thats still in good shape, LOL! My wood backing appears to be in decent shape. (Thank God!!)

Well the first engine is down off the shelf. The hull and topsides are sanded. I am almost done fairing the hull and will be starting to fair the topsides tomorrow. Just stripped the wetbar and helm seat boxes and will have them prepped soon. I ordered the Awlgrip this week. Went with "cloud white" but am considering going with light blue or light yellow on the hull. Got a rough estimate on recovering the helm seats and bolsters, $1500 and I need to make new plywood backing for the bolsters and seat bottom. Going to shop alittle more. Got another estimate on the engine rebuilds. $3500-$4200 per engine. Boy I love pouring money into my big hole in the water!

Looking great Todd!!! I'm sure you already know how the primer is going to apply but if not, keep a spreader in hand to fill pin holes in the hull.... I learned the hard way by re-priming the transom. Thick coat prime then had to spread in sections....was weird. Gelcoat was not what I thought it was....just a thought....

Jeff,
Im using awlgrips 545 epoxy primer. It says to lay down a light tack coat first then wait 30-45 min and apply 2 regular coats. I have been reading up on painting boats and was surprised on how porous gelcoat is. I am a novice when it comes to painting. I have a professional who is going to spray the final coat for me. He offered to spray the primer and final coat but I want to sand the primer first and correct everything before the final coat. Any suggestions on a inexpesnsive spray gun. I just picked up a Home depot set with an hvlp and coventional top feed guns with a 1.4 tip. From what I read it looks like I want to use the top feed coventional. I really didn't want to spend $400-$500 on a primer gun, what do you think?