Trojan Boat Forum

If you already put the new fuel sender in you might as well replace the gauge. You already did the hard part.

It turns out the sender and gauge are backward when I raise the float the gauge drops and vice versa why would it reverse the reading. Alternator tested good when I brought it to a repair shop. I chased all grounds today and none are disconnected or anything they all have continuity. I just can't wrap my head around this and the marina I got the sending unit from said bring the boat we will check it out and see what's wrong our rate is 90 an hour eh not paying for something that's probably extremely simple.

Your sender is not the right one for the gauge most likely . That's why I said make sure the sender is a match for the gauge . Check the ground at the gauge first . .Most likely you have a AC/Delco gauge they work backwards (They are hard to find) There is one place that has them . Beacon Marine our site sponsor ,give Bob a call contact info is on the home page. Make sure you have your hull ID number . Your other choice is to get a new gauge to match the sender. As far as your alternator you could have a bad regulator .

AlphaJustin wrote:It turns out the sender and gauge are backward when I raise the float the gauge drops and vice versa why would it reverse the reading. Alternator tested good when I brought it to a repair shop. I chased all grounds today and none are disconnected or anything they all have continuity. I just can't wrap my head around this and the marina I got the sending unit from said bring the boat we will check it out and see what's wrong our rate is 90 an hour eh not paying for something that's probably extremely simple.

Actually, everything is working as it should (which is good news). The new sender uses American Standard resistance values (Empty = 240 ohms, Mid = 103 ohms, and Full = 33.5 ohms). The factory sender and gauge that are/were in your F25 used resistance values of Empty = 0 ohms and Full = 90 ohms. That's why your old gauge is working backwards with your new sender. Replacing your gauge with a new American Standard gauge will fix the problem.

I like Faria gauges a lot. They have a very good technical support guide at https://fariabeede.com/site_manuals/IS0100q.pdf . You can also review my thread on replacing my gauges and senders at http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... f=1&t=7585 . Hopefully you can find a Faria gauge that matches the look of your current gauges pretty closely.

I just up dated my last post and what Doghouse said is correct . If you want to use your Gauge get a OEM sender from beacon or just update both .
Faria are nice , I like VDOs myself ( beware of e-bay fakes) and I believe Telaflex makes a one that's looks close .

I called to see if Beacon had the correct sender and called my local marina to see if they could take back my sender i may have to buy a new gauge to avoid literally throwing out 42 bucks we will see when they call me back. While i wait here is a picture of the engine hopefully this will help? the alternator issue and tach issue maybe you guys can see something in the picture I missed.

Post a photo not using photobucket , they are charging a large fee to users wanting too post photos

prowlersfish wrote:Post a photo not using photobucket , they are charging a large fee to users wanting too post photos

Sorry I didn't realize it did that I fixed it thank you for the heads up.

Just so you know we have the wiring diagrams for the Chrysler engines for almost every year.
We also have the wiring diagrams for any Trojan.

The wiring diagram for the Chrysler engines we will text or E mail you a Tiff of the drawing just Text us no charge.

609 713 4602

As for the Wiring diagrams for your Trojan there is a fee and we would need you Hull number TRJ ....... or better the working Hull number three numbers followed by four.

Working hull number is found by the AC/ DC panel " a aluminum plate the size of a credit card it will have the Hull Number and engine numbers.

We also should have any gauge or tach for any Trojan.

Bob
Beacon Marine
608 723 4602

Thank you Bob I will text you guys for the pic... I don't have a TRJ number just the working HIN 2512053 and that plate is actually under the steering wheel in my boat. I appreciate the response I think my boat was built 3rd shift on a Friday haha just stick it in there and let's go home.

Another option...

A lot of (all?) Chartplotters come with a NEMA2000 interface. I bought the garmin Gfs10 fuel flow meters to measure, of all things, fuel flow. Turns out they also have an integrated tank level sensor. If you have an N2K compatible chartplotter, you may want to consider just adding a gfs10. Serves as a backup to your factory gauge, should that return to life, and you get all the bells and whistles of modern automobile trip computers -- miles per gallon, fuel used since last reset, distance to go until silence, etc.

Good luck finding your gremlins.

I wish Garmin would get it together and offer something the would work on diesels . All you need is 2(4) sensors and some basic program to do math between the two .


I just went to NEMA 2000 to use AIS . lot easier then wiring up NEMA 183 . great system . With that said I will stick with std gauges .But I could see why one would want it on the display

I'm worried about keeping it correct but digital gauges on screens would be real nice. I realized I have gauges on a boat I'm parting out so I'm just going to connect them and see if things change. But I do have the garmin gps and fish finder so the upgrade may happen this winter if I can't get the gauges sorted out.