Trojan Boat Forum

I forgot to mention that i first removed the gutter and caulked the seam between the bridge floor and the cabin top replaced the gutter and caulked it then used the capt. tolly sealent .also found out that the water can travel along the wire raceway on eather side of the cabin top above the windows and also had a leak at the back of the salon by the glass doors that also stoped (GUTTER small J channel around the cabin top)

I also used the liquid sealent on the screw heads of the gutter because i felt the water may have ran down the threads into the wire raceway

Here is the mast light wiring I was talking about - coming through inner liner of the bridge enclosure and feeding down through the hard top, through the wooden block.

My 33 year old gutter is really shot. Several screw holes are almost corroded away and the holes in the top are oversize. Next spring I will replace the gutter and 5200/Marinetex the joint and redrill.

Thanks for all the great suggestions.
Lakeguy

here is what i did to water proof the mast light from the outside. i undid the bolts and while phil held the entire mast light, i used closed cell weather stripping around the exterior square of the mast. once the assembly was back in place, i reattached the bolts and it sealed the exterior. i then was able to remove the light assemby from the top and put a small rubber washer/gasket around the bottom of the light. that entire unit was sealed from the outside. in order to minimize any leaks from the bimini, i then used a plastic tarp over the entire bridge area and clamped it down just in case the bimini leaked. do not forget to use the capt tolley crack cure around the upper helm seat post blocks and concentrate on the screws from the top. you might want to use the crack cure around the stanchions and screws up there too... hey, it's a way to atleast minimize what could be any point of water entry. just a thought.
aaron in baltimore, now boatless and in limbo.