Trojan Boat Forum

I have two batteries connected by a battery switch. One battery is a Group 24 starting battery and the other battery is a Group 29 Deep Cycle battery. These batteries came with the boat when I purchased it. I'll probably replace both with Group 27 Dual Purpose batteries eventually, but they're working fine so I'm in no hurry.

I have two 1100 GPH bilge pumps. One is located near the stern, has an external float switch, and is plumbed out the transom. It practically never runs. The other bilge pump is located in the hollow keel under the V drive, has an internal float switch, and is plumbed out the port side of the hull. The Attwood Sahara fits perfectly in the keel.



This bilge pump runs occasionally since the water drops from the stuffing box run down into the hollow keel.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

Am I missing something here?
The board is place there as a reference.

I have a board between the two stringers where the rudder post is in my boat as well. I believe you are missing that board.

Dog House, you just convinced me it's time to change out my forward bilge pump.

I went through my parts and lumber bin of things that were left on the boat
Look what I found. The board..lol
I think things go like this. I will and a few washers under the linkage to prevent rub marks on board.
I think the silver locking ring goes on top to prevent rudder from falling out.Holds linkage together to.
Does that sound right.

Mine is set up the other way; collar under the tiller arm but it has rubbed a groove into the board. Looks like I will need to address this soon.

I think I might be in the market for a new collar and tiller arm.



I'm going to try and find some very large washers or a plate with a hole in it to mount between the board and the collar. I think the difficult task is going to be getting the tiller and collar off.

My board has rub marks on it to. Im going to put a washer underneath it.

I agree the collar should go underneath.

thanx for the input

Shim put next to board with locking ring above.

Rudder view after shim and locking ring installed.

Where did you get the washer? HD or Lowes doesn't carry anything for 1" diameter. I was thinking about putting in a piece of starboard between the collar and the wood just as a sacrificial piece but I'd prefer something more permanent. I don't think my rudder post is long enough to get a rudder bearing flange under it. I may have to fab up a new board and lower it some how to get a bearing flange between the wood and collar.

http://www.deepblueyachtsupply.com/stee ... ng-flanges

Pick up washer at local hardware store. Thank goodness they still are around.
Look at clearance on rudder from below. You might be able to push it up some.
Or just cut a deeper grove in the board.There might be enough rubbed away already
to put washer in.

Once you get that nut off use a screw driver to help open the gap on control arm..

From this:



To this. I feel better now.







I will move the collar up some so it's closer to the bottom of the bearing flange where it sticks down from the underside of the board.
I will probably go ahead and replaced the tiller arm as well.

Only issue is that I have to remove the tiller arm, board and collar below the board to change the packing, not sure if I can back the packing nut off with the collar in the way. I couldn't put the collar on top of the bearing flange because my rudder shaft isn't long enough, so the tiller arm rests directly on the bearing flange. The collar below the board is there just in case the rudder shaft decides to come loose from the tiller arm. I would assume that a new tiller arm would have set screw too so that would be added insurance.

Looks good.

Paul wrote:Looks good.

Thanks.
The original rudder shaft had a small thin bearing flange between the wood brace and shaft. The flange diameter was the same diameter of the original collar. The board needed to be tightened enough to squeeze this bearing so it didn't move. Over the years the original bearing flange wasn't tight to the board and it seized to the shaft. Thus it started wearing down into the board as the shaft turned.

The new bearing flange is thicker and is screwed to the board so it won't move.

FYI, I had to use a dremel to cut the old collar off.

I have a similar set up to this and I'm not sure if its factory or not. It was like this when I got the boat.

You can see the flange bearing in the picture below. Having the generator back there makes it a little tougher to service.