Posted: Mon Nov 19, 2012 6:34 pm
RWS - in answer to your post.
I don't think drilling holes would work, at least not in my case. The plywood and balsa were completely soaked. If you got to the point of removing the pulpit it's not that much more work to replace the front section like I did. I had damage on top plus I created more work by trying to open it up. If the rest of it is reasonably dry it shouldn't be that big a deal. Perfect excuse to buy a moisture meter and see how wet it really is!
I'm still not sure what I'm going to do on the starboard/teak. They do sell glue specifically for Starboard but you need to treat it with a flame first. If I do that then there wouldn't be any holes left for water to penetrate. I'll just let it get wet between the fiberglass/Starboard/teak and not worry about it. If I re-use the existing holes then I can just use longer screws and mechanically attach the starboard through the teak. Since the screwheads are plugged and I'd use sealant, it's probably not a bad option.
Bob
I don't think drilling holes would work, at least not in my case. The plywood and balsa were completely soaked. If you got to the point of removing the pulpit it's not that much more work to replace the front section like I did. I had damage on top plus I created more work by trying to open it up. If the rest of it is reasonably dry it shouldn't be that big a deal. Perfect excuse to buy a moisture meter and see how wet it really is!
I'm still not sure what I'm going to do on the starboard/teak. They do sell glue specifically for Starboard but you need to treat it with a flame first. If I do that then there wouldn't be any holes left for water to penetrate. I'll just let it get wet between the fiberglass/Starboard/teak and not worry about it. If I re-use the existing holes then I can just use longer screws and mechanically attach the starboard through the teak. Since the screwheads are plugged and I'd use sealant, it's probably not a bad option.
Bob