Trojan Boat Forum

The whole thing is bronze. Bolts too. What Big D says about loosening the face plate bolts to see if the valve will close is good advice. I had forgot about that trick on these old Groco style sea cocks.

I keep thinking about this problem and can't help but to wonder how thin the metal has gotten. It could be little more than a milimeter thats preventing what amounts to a two inch hole from opening below the waterline.

I don't recall what the bolts are made of but to play it safe, don't heave on them too much. May want to spray them with a penetrating product and let it sit overnight first. I had to do it with one of mine when I first got her because the T handle was broken off so it was the only way to loosen and operate the control handle.

Commissionpoint, great idea! Everything should be bronze. That is really fortunate that its not the seacock thats cracked and the fitting instead! Those bolts basically contain the the black rubber/seacock arm together by holding the plate in place.
before you do anything have a plan in place to plug it off in case the fitting shears off. I would have a few "plans" in place in case one or two dont work. West marine sells tapered wood plugs as well as a rubber tapered plug.
I would spray the two bolts with "pb blaster" and repeat over a period of time. the bolts are bronze so I wouldnt apply too much force. if you get them to move i would loosen but not remove them completely. first try wiggling the handle , if that doesn't work, with the two bolts still loose, tighten the the t handle while wiggling the other handle. the T handle is basically welded on to a bolt which is threaded into the sea cock. when you tighten the t handle it applies pressure to a bronze disc inside the sea cock which typically would apply pressure to the rubber sealing it off. I'm thinking with the two bolts and containment plate loose, tightening the t handle should push the rubber bellows sideways and possibly help to break it loose in the process. If it were me I would spray the heck out of the sea cock with PB blaster penetrating oil. I dont know for sure if it will damage the rubber but I personally dont believe it will hurt it. there should be enough "give" in the rubber to break it loose with a little effort.
Please be careful working on this in the water as you basically have a textbook example on "how to sink your boat"!
Be safe and good luck with everything.

Great News. I made a 4" handle extension of 1/2" PVC with a PVC T and slipped it over the handle, Loosened the T on the seacock and worked it slowly back and forth until it moved freely open/close. It works great now, so I need to fix it all.t

My Seacock has slots instead of holes in the base for the bolts, and uses slotted head screws on the level cover with nuts on the back , so it is quite different form the pictures posted above.

Is the top of the original 1974 Bronze T-Handle Barrel SeaCock a 1-1/4" NPT thread?

The bronze seacock is not pink, and I'm not in a public dock with a lot of strya electric current int he water (and don't even have shore power - its a 500' dock at my house with solar panels keeping it all charged), so the Seacock may be OK, but it may have cracked in the threads. We'll find out soon enough.

Yes, I do have plugs, but not sure what good they'll do in a cracked seacock housing when I unscrew the fitting from atop the seacock. I will use a pipe wring with rags on the seacock and turn the fitting above off with a 2nd pipe wrench. I plan to have rags, zip ties , clamps and a caulk tube (or 2) of 5200 handy (and plugs which may or may not help if its not round, or breaks at t he base) if it comes to that.

Will order all new elbows/pipes/strainer on the idea that the seacock is OK ...

Is everyone else's strainer completely below the water line?

My existing strainer is below the water line, but the pipe out the top actually goes up just above (about 3-4") the water line, so if the hose broke to the pump breaks, it would not leak ... seems like a good idea. How i everyone else's setup?

The only straners I have are under the hull on the pickups . Also my thru hulls are 1 3/4 ID ,larger then oem . most of the hose is below the water line

Mine is a 10M International, but all original. I have the old style sea-cock located under the pulleys on each engine, hose goes to a Perko strainer setup, then up to the E35 water pumps. The thru hulls have a strainer on the outside. If I replace them I'll put a hinged strainer on them, so I can get in there and clean if needed.

Thanks for the link to West Systems. I rebuilt a hatch and have plenty left. Just gotta decide if I have the $ to spend. I'd sure like to replace those two engine sea-cocks just for ease of use. The original ones are stiff and the two T handles are a PITA to get to. I'd like to get an engine flush out set up too, so will have to hit the internet to price out everything.

So, does anyone happen to know?

Is the top of the original 1974 Bronze T-Handle Barrel SeaCock a 1-1/4" NPT thread?

I measured roughly, but don't want to take it apart until I have new parts ...

Thank you in advance!

If all your hoses are 1 1/4 the assumption would have to be that all the fittings are as well---- in the old days the fittings had sizes cast in them maybe on the shoulders or outside of the elbows----- all my stuff is 1 1/4 on the 78 but theses boats are old and you never know what has been done before you--- just compare your measurements with the new that you are looking at, all the pipe fittings should be tapered thread-----so not very definitive but my experience---- Mike

Problem is my boat was completely gutted and re-powered with diesels, so I wouldn't rely on hose sizes, and can't see the casting.

I'll take more measurements and try to get a caliper down there I guess ...

My 318s in both the old f28 going away and the newer one in the slip. Both have 90 degree elbows out of the old Groco seacock, they are 1.25 inches OD, and fasten with a nut, seal and both sides flat flanges.

It appears most of the newer attachment fittings use pipe threads to attach to the seacock.

My research indicates disassemble the valve clean up the rubber plug center, lubricate with silicone and it works perfectly smooth. Tried it and indeed it now works properly.

I see not need to change.