Trojan Boat Forum

Need to winterize my Chrysler 318 engine today in my 1978 F26. Have winterized quite a few newer GM block engines before, but I'm a bit confused on this 318. Loosed up what I thought was a block drain, but oil came out. I guess it was the oil drain that is angled on the side of the block. Was having a hard time seeing others that would drain the block.

Also, the manifolds seem to have 7 drain fittings. 1 of them on each side is really big (7/8" or so) the others are the smaller brass type. Can't break any of them loose. Before reefing on all of them, is there just 1 or 2 that need to be removed?

Anybody have pictures of the drain locations (block and manifolds) and which ones need to be pulled to drain for winter? Any other tips?

Thanks,
Rich

Hi Rich...

been winterizing my 318 myself for years now.

You don't need to do go that route.

I hang large plastic funnels at my exhaust exits with clear 3/4" tubing from them into a 5 gal. bucket, on the ground.

I undo the raw water pickup off my impeller pump and fasten a 1 1/4" clear tube that runs out of the engine bay and out of the boat... to the 5 gal bucket.

I fill the bucket with RV antifreeze, and fill the tube as well (so it is primed for the pump)

Start your engine, watch for flow (easy to see with the clear tubing and pink antifreeze) ...run your engine to operating temp (throttle at idle), and wait until the thermostat opens...when it does, run for about 1 minute more then shut down.

I use a temp gun on the thermostat housing to see the temp change when the thermo opens at 140 degrees. (hand on the intake hose from the thermo housing will tell you when it opens too)

Note: be sure that your funnels are collecting the exhausted fluid and directing it too the bucket properly.

All the tubing and funnels are cheap, at any farm/hardware store.

This system works well, fool proof, and lets you know 100% that your block has been flushed with the RV antifreeze.

Have read several times of those who run the fluid thru without having the thermo open....ouch, not replacing raw water in the block.

If you pull the thermo, you don't have to run the motor as long obviously.

I do it this way, cuz in the springtime I don't have to do anything else.

Hope this gives you another idea...

drain cocks should be in good condition always...and mine are, but I don't trust that they let all the water out of the pooling parts of the block.

Paul

I attached a flushing valve on each intake hose a few yrs back and find it is great. I attach a hose to the valve and flush out the engine and wait for the engine to heat up. Than i fill up a 5 gallon container with pink anti freeze, attach hose, and wait till it is coming out the exhaust

The drain plug/tap are on each side of the block towards the front of the engine (where belts are) from midway couple inches above the oil pan and if your engine has a downward lean to the stern they are uphill on the block so you should also add some pink to get at the water that will not drain out.... so the prior suggestions are good and you don't need to remove them.

Though I just drain the block and exhaust headers by removing the related plugs then disconnect the hoses at the thermostat to add pink with a funnel (into engine and headers) and also remove the hose below the water pump (coming from oil cooler) and add pink there to get into the cooler, *key* not to forget this step.