Trojan Boat Forum

I want to mount a 9.9 horse 4 stroke outboard to the transom of my F-26. Since the boat is an inboard, the transom is not reinforced with wood, so my concern is that the transom might not be strong enough to support the motor.

Has anybody mounted a kicker on the transom? If so, did you have to add reinforcement? How does it work?

Thanks!

I had a 26' Chris Craft Catalina without a swim platform, and managed to mount a trolling motor bracket to the transom. As you point out, there is an issue about backing. I used plywood backing fit (as best I could) to the inner contour of the transom -- 3/4", as I recall, doubled at the point where the bracket was to be attached. The motor bracket was through-bolted through the transom and the backing plate. The backer was held in with most of a tube of 5200, along with the through bolts -- have to let the backer dry in place first, then drill for the through-bolts. In the Chris Craft, there was a gas tank along the transom, and that made access difficult.

The rig worked fine, and proved to be very sturdy. Just to keep options open, I used a Garelick bracket that holds the motor bracket (bracket slides into the mounting bracket).

My current boat (Trojan F26, when the current owner gets the prep work completed) has a swim platform, and I'm thinking of mounting a kicker to the swim platform -- looking for a stationary bracket made for that purpose (Bayliner style). I've had one before, but seem to be hard to find. Garelick makes a stainless one that appears to swing up, and mounts flat to the platform, and this may work but seems more complex than needed (and not as sleek looking, in my view.)

Curt (oldboat1)

With plywood backing like posted above you should be fine

prowlersfish wrote:With plywood backing like posted above you should be fine

ditto. These old boats have thick hulls and, with some basic foresight, can be re-enforced easily. Have you given thought to remote throttle control, or is it going to be strictly for trolling, and having someone kill the throttle manually when necessary?

The transoms are thin thats why the need of a good backing

Heefus raises an interesting issue. When I mounted a trolling motor to the Chris Craft transom, I used an electric-start model (push-button starting at the motor was OK). The point was to avoid pull-starting a motor that is a couple of feet or so below the top of the transom. I also got obsessive and put in a steering and control system. For steering, I built a small console in back of the regular steering station (kind of like on commercial crab boats). I think the controls were mounted on the side. The trick for the steering is to find a way to mount the steering ram on the mounting bracket under the motor, if using a rack and pinion system like I used (or any cable system). There are aluminum plates out there that mount under the motor clamps and provide a steering tube for the ram. Those work well. (I was using an old motor. If you have a newer one, the steering tube is built in.)

Anyway, remote controls for throttle, gearshift and steering is the way to go.

prowlersfish wrote:The transoms are thin thats why the need of a good backing

I agree that they need a good backing. I was just noting that our hulls, being built when the properties of fiberglass were still unknown and therefore overbuilt, are much thicker than they are in new manufacture boats.

Heefus wrote:

prowlersfish wrote:The transoms are thin thats why the need of a good backing

I agree that they need a good backing. I was just noting that our hulls, being built when the properties of fiberglass were still unknown and therefore overbuilt, are much thicker than they are in new manufacture boats.

I don't think you will find the transom over built by any standard . But thats just my option I kind of thought they got kind of cheap back there . I guess it what you compare it too ( like a 1963 Hatteras )

oldboat1 wrote:I had a 26' Chris Craft Catalina without a swim platform, and managed to mount a trolling motor bracket to the transom. As you point out, there is an issue about backing. I used plywood backing fit (as best I could) to the inner contour of the transom -- 3/4", as I recall, doubled at the point where the bracket was to be attached. The motor bracket was through-bolted through the transom and the backing plate. The backer was held in with most of a tube of 5200, along with the through bolts -- have to let the backer dry in place first, then drill for the through-bolts. In the Chris Craft, there was a gas tank along the transom, and that made access difficult.

The rig worked fine, and proved to be very sturdy. Just to keep options open, I used a Garelick bracket that holds the motor bracket (bracket slides into the mounting bracket).

My current boat (Trojan F26, when the current owner gets the prep work completed) has a swim platform, and I'm thinking of mounting a kicker to the swim platform -- looking for a stationary bracket made for that purpose (Bayliner style). I've had one before, but seem to be hard to find. Garelick makes a stainless one that appears to swing up, and mounts flat to the platform, and this may work but seems more complex than needed (and not as sleek looking, in my view.)

Curt (oldboat1)

Oldboat,
What type of kicker motor did you have on the Catalina? What kind of speed range did you get with the kicker (speed at idle, speed at wot).

Why are you thinking of adding the outboard ?

prowlersfish wrote:Why are you thinking of adding the outboard ?

Troll slow for walleye (1.5 mph or less), and use less gas than running the main engine with trolling bags off the sides. Also would be for getting back to shore if the big engine broke down.

prowlersfish wrote:

Heefus wrote:

prowlersfish wrote:The transoms are thin thats why the need of a good backing

I agree that they need a good backing. I was just noting that our hulls, being built when the properties of fiberglass were still unknown and therefore overbuilt, are much thicker than they are in new manufacture boats.

I don't think you will find the transom over built by any standard . But thats just my option I kind of thought they got kind of cheap back there . I guess it what you compare it too ( like a 1963 Hatteras )

My buddy has a 67 Alglass Cruiser. The hull is almost an inch thick I get on a modern Bayliner, and it feels like you could knock a hole in it with barely a thought.

a 67 alglass ( early pacemaker ) vs a bayliner I would think it would have more glass those early 60s boats had some glass for sure . a Bayliner well its a ....... bayliner . I do like some of them like the 4750


as far as a get home motor seatow or boat us would be a good choice

Codger -- I used an old 10hp Chrysler Sailor ('76) -- started out with the extra long shaft (sailboat model), then converted it to a long shaft. I didn't need the extra leg length. I used a bracket that could be raised and lowered. The old Chryslers used a banana style steering bracket that replaced the regular handle. I didn't have one of those, so improvised a little. I also used a newer '90s Evinrude 9.9 a little bit, although I think that was before I set up full controls. I found that there was just not sufficient control if depending on the boat rudder for steering, and I needed the throttle and gearshift controls for fishing. I don't really know how fast these motors pushed the boat -- depended on wave and wind action. These are tall hulls, and can't expect too much from the trolling motor. The motor got me back into port a couple of times when I had engine electrical issues, though, and I was glad to have it.

You could go to a higher horsepower 15 or 20/25, but that also presents weight issues, as does adding the heavier 4-stroke. I'm not real keen on the looks of an outboard hanging off the stern, even if neatly done, but it serves the purpose. In terms of placement, center of the stern is probably best (mine was on the port side), to give the best control. I remember that I sometimes fired up the main engine for turns and corrections that were too much for the trolling motor, particularly when out in the bay with some wave action.

Oldboat

I should add that an advantage in using the trolling motor was that you could run the motor at higher rpms and still get a good trolling speed -- better for the motor. In a smaller boat, you are ususally trying to get a ten or fifteen horse idled down slow enough for good trolling.