Trojan Boat Forum

Hi all. I just picked up a 76 trojan F26 for a song (100 bucks)... everything seems to be in order but the engine has locked up it is a 318. the code on the plate under the steering wheel says that the engine is a 318 bwh 249185 RH rotation, and the boat number is 261-5026. My question is that I bought a cherry 318 auto engine and was planning on dropping it in. But the RH rotation is telling me that the engine will spin the wrong way for me. can i just switch the propeller to the opposite pitch and be okay? I read something about switching the pump also, is that the raw water pump? Also someone said that the transmission can be reversed to allow me to keep the same prop... Any help would be greatly appreciated because I am a boating newb, but me and my family are really falling in love with this boat and want to get it back on the water.

First of all, welcome to the forum. I am sure when you get the engine question straightened out, and any others that may pop up,you will enjoy your F26.

There are many on here that have a great knowledge of your boat and several who make their living working on boats and I am sure they will be along soon to answer all of your questions.

Do you have any photos you could post? Did you get a survey done to check all of the other items beside the engine?

The transmission cannot be reversed to keep the same prop on a Velvet drive (most likely you have one) You will need to rotate the pump on the front of the transmission to match the direction of the engine and get the right prop . I believe you will have to rotate the raw water pump also . you will need to get a proper rotation starter ,

Make sure of the engine(s) directions be fore changing everything.

Couldnt you just take the cam and dizzy out of the old motor? Whould see that that would be the most straight forward. Maybe I am wrong though.

Dizzy ??

http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos- ... 7730_n.jpg

heres a pick of her.

looks good

prowlersfish wrote:Dizzy ??

Distributor?

foofer b wrote:

prowlersfish wrote:Dizzy ??

Distributor?

Could be ????

the 318 is the same block and crankshaft as auto engine but many things are done to marinize it, for instance Brass "freeze" and welch plugs. The engine comes with a sticker stating it is an industrial or marine engine not for use on roads. It is configured to run at constant rpms rather than stop and go.

I have my old engines both R and L turning engines, good running internals, R standard turning engine had block cracked by freezing, but still ran as did the L turning engine but good block. Used in fresh water

okay so i hooked up my starter to a 12 volt battery today (just hooked the hot wire to the bolt sticking out of the starter and toughted the ground to the body of the starter) it spun counterclockwise which would spin the engine clockwise when looking at it from the flywheel which i believe is a standard rotation motor correct? plus the firing order of the motor in the boat is identical to the firing order of the car engine according to the intakes. Wouldnt the firing order have to be different on a reverse rotation engine?

You are correct standarrd rotation is to the right or clockwwise from the front end and CCW from flywheel. You said the engine was locked up. Apparently not if the starter spun it so it is free, good thing.

In twin screws the props turn over the top towards port and starboard. That way torque is mitigated.

I would bet, but I do not know for sure all single screw applications are normal, RH clockwise rotation looking at the prop from the rear

FYI, beacon marine our sponsors can provide with documentation on your boat with the serial number. Wiring diagrams what it originally sold for, how it was equipped.

I'll second the earlier comments on using the auto engine.

You will need at the very least to put marine lifter springs in this motor.



The springs will be tuned (spring rate and spring constant) in marine applications for a constant rpm at whatever the optimal speed - whether its 2800, 2900, 3000, or whatever.

The automotive springs will be good at handling the full range of rpms which automotive engines find.

You may want also to find out if the automotive valve seats can take the steady 3000 rpm type pounding for hours on end.

These are the type items which are optimized for marine and generator use.

Valve seats the same , lifter springs ?? I assume you mean valve springs may or may not be the same But I would not worry about it , the main and most of the time the only difference is marine heads will have Valve rotators on the intake ( not always ) and the exhaust, in automotive world you find them on the exhaust only and some times not at all .

The average boater puts under 100 hours a year on their engines , wearing out valves won't a issue .

99% of valve issues on marine engine I have seen are stuck valves from lack of use or water . The only valve spring issues I have seen is braking spring because the engine ran too cold ( removed thermostat )

Burnt valves ? The only one I remember was a 318 , the hour meter broke at 4000 hours

In other words don't worry about it