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penetrating oil test
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 4:29 pm
by larryeddington
Here is some info that someone sent me, I have not done my own tests but will try this when needed next.
Testing Penetrating Oils – FYI
Machinist’s Workshop N Mag recently published some information on various penetrating oils that are very interesting. Some might appreciate this. The magazine reports they tested penetrators for break out torque on rusted nuts. They are below. They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrators with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a “scientifically rusted†environment.:
Penetrating Oils Average Torque load to loosen.
No Oil used 516 lbs
WD-40 238 lbs
PB Blaster 214 lbs
Liquid Wrench 127 lbs
Kano Kroil 106 lbs
ATF-Acetone Mix 53 lbs
The ATF-Acetone mix is a home brew of 50-50 ATF and Acetone. Note it released better than any of the others in this test, It is said thte ATF and lacquer thinner 50-50 mix works well too.
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 5:33 pm
by Allen Sr
Did they by chance publish the amount of time the product sat on before loosening the rusted nut?
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 6:41 pm
by larryeddington
What you see is what you get, Someone sent me these data. I checked the website for the magazine and as I do not myself subscribe I could not search it.
I just passed it on may or may not be of help but when we get stuck bolts and nuts we usually toss everything we can at it.

Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 7:12 pm
by Commissionpoint
I have seen this data before. I have to admit that at the time it intrigued me enough to brew up a batch of the ATF/Acetone mix.
Here are my takeaways from that test.
-Over time the mixture gets old, only mix what you think you will use in a short time. (week tops)
-You will need an appropriate applicator. I used an empty 3in1 oil can.
-It works. I don't know if it works better than liquid wrench, WD, 3-36, PB Blaster or anything else, but it DOES work.
So while I wouldn't go run out and buy a gallon of ATF and a gallon of acetone, I would definately mix these things up if its what I had and needed some hardware unseized.
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 7:39 pm
by alexander38
Wintergreen oil works great too, Used it in the Navy on Sub-safe valves
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:26 pm
by RWS
Whatever happened to good ole CRC 5-56 ?
RWS
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:39 pm
by Commissionpoint
CRC is out there. 2-26, 3-36, 5-56, Power Lube, etc. Its my brand of choice. I get 2-26 and 3-36 at the industrial electric supply house locally. Usually I grab a few cans of each because I am not there often. Its also where I buy my bundles of leather work gloves, so usually its one stop shopping for those things. I'm getting ready to go there soon for both items.
Posted: Wed Jan 02, 2013 9:51 pm
by LandVF36
And be careful with acetone around fiber/resign surfaces (like the hull of your boat

Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 6:40 am
by aaronbocknek
my mechanic john gave me a spray can of kroil last year. LOVE IT. yes mike and perry, if you need to borrow some, it's there for you.
(btw.... perry, a.k.a, p-dog, is the newest tb.net member at parkside. he will be on the same side of the marina as mike kulp and myself. let the fun begin!!)
aaron
Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2013 6:49 pm
by P-Dogg
Please Aaron -- it's P-Dogg, with two g's...
Now back to the thread. It is also important to give whatever liquid help you choose to use some time to work. It amazes me when people squirt some oil on and then put a wrench on immediately. Criminy -- put some oil on and go to lunch; overnight is not too long if you have the time. And try turning the fastener both ways, i.e., looser and tighter, not just "off". Doing so gives microscopic debris a chance to work out of the threads instead of build up in them. A good whack or two (no giggling) can loosen-up things too, and help work the lubricant into where it needs to be.