Trojan Boat Forum

http://www.trojanboats.net/wforum/viewt ... a&start=15

Cause you know how to do it..that's why and thanks, the lip on the back will be gone, and yes the platform is flat....

I know I'm going to keep remembering things that I take for granted in this type of work and forgot to mention! The corners up against the edges/wall should have a radius and not be a square corner if you know what I mean when you lay the last mat. This makes a stronger connection from the horizontal to vertical surfaces and prevents cracking at the corner or where the two meet. It also helps to prevent the glass from separating at this transition as it will stay in place easier on a radius than it will in a 90 degree turn. This goes for outside transitions also. Where possible/practical, when building something to be covered in glass, corner edges should be rounded off prior to applying glass mat. Again, a glass roller really helps to contour the mat in these areas.

For the benefit of those wondering what roller I'm talking about, see the link below (ignore "made in China"!!)
http://www.google.ca/imgres?imgurl=http ... AA&dur=144

thanks again for more info, I've watched a lot You Tube stuff as well as reading my old Navy Hull Tech Petty Officer 3 & 2 but the Navy didn't do core back then I'm also going to put S/S angle in it where the Dink sits, Which is also where two braces go back to the boat/ My thought on that was to transfer load weight to the boat hull and backing plates that are 6"x8"x1/2" alum. installed by Carver.

please move this back to Pont...the home of tokens...