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F36 stanchions
Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 9:07 am
by 8lug
I am replacing the rail bases as i go.
I got the first couple of bases off and went to west marine to replace
best i can tell they are a match except for the screw holes
1 will line up but the other 2 need new holes drilled
I guess thats ok since all will be sealed and hidden.
Or is there somewhere i can get the correct ones to just drop back in
Thanks ahead of time
Re: F36 stanchions
Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 12:06 pm
by larryeddington
Try Beacon Marine, may have originals.
Re: F36 stanchions
Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 12:11 pm
by 8lug
Ok ill try that
Didnt know he had other things besides whats on his site
Re: F36 stanchions
Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 7:21 pm
by Away On Busine$$
Have you got a picture and the size. I have six removed form my F32.
Re: F36 stanchions
Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 11:32 pm
by yorklyn
Try
www.ggschmitt.com its my understanding they supplied a lot of stainless parts to Trojan. You may get lucky.
Re: F36 stanchions
Posted: Sat Feb 22, 2014 11:45 pm
by MattSC
Why don't you just get all of them re-chromed? I just had all of my original deck hardware re-chromed when I redid the deck. Depending on how many stanchions you have, if might be cheaper. Plus all of the holes will line up. Make sure you use a good backing plate, mine were plywood and needed to be replaced. Here's some before and after photos of my cleats, the stanchions came out the same and my rod holders were a mess.
Re: F36 stanchions
Posted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 8:01 am
by aaronbocknek
wow those are nice. who did your re-chroming? i'd love to have my throttle/transmission handles and covers redone. they look a bit tired. then again, so do i these days. hey, maybe I need a complete refit!!!
i'm also curious how your cleats attach matt. i have the same ones and i am just unsure what they look like from underneath.
Re: F36 stanchions
Posted: Sun Feb 23, 2014 9:03 am
by 8lug
Those do look nice.
A few of the rail bases are broke. I think im just going to go with aftermarket ones.
They seem to be thicker. And someone already replaced one with the am type
Re: F36 stanchions
Posted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 7:36 pm
by MattSC
8lug wrote:Those do look nice.
A few of the rail bases are broke. I think im just going to go with aftermarket ones.
They seem to be thicker. And someone already replaced one with the am type
That makes sense if you have some broken ones. Mine were chrome plated bronze, not stainless.
aaronbocknek wrote:wow those are nice. who did your re-chroming? i'd love to have my throttle/transmission handles and covers redone. they look a bit tired. then again, so do i these days. hey, maybe I need a complete refit!!!
i'm also curious how your cleats attach matt. i have the same ones and i am just unsure what they look like from underneath.
Aaron, all of my chrome was done by New England Chrome, one of my friends does alot of business with them. They are located in East Hartford CT.
As for my cleats, they are thru bolted from under the deck. I can't remember the bolt size off the top of my head, I can get the correct size if you need them. All of my cleats showed no signs of any type of bedding compound at all. (which led to most of my coring issues) All but a few of the bolts were badly rusted, to almost half of their original diameter and snapped trying to get them out. I saved a few of them and can post a picture for you. The bolts were steel, and the backing plates were plywood. I'm glad I didn't find out the hard way
Re: F36 stanchions
Posted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 7:45 pm
by lakeguy72
To avoid problems down the road, drill out old or new holes so that they are oversize. Then use tape to seal the backside and fill the holes with epoxy. Then redrill the holes
and mount the stanchions or whatever hardware you are mounting. This will seal and protect the core.
Lakeguy
Re: F36 stanchions
Posted: Mon Feb 24, 2014 10:06 pm
by 8lug
Got the new holes drilled
Thats a good idea to fill old holes in.
Re: F36 stanchions
Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2014 3:52 am
by aaronbocknek
MattSC wrote:8lug wrote:Those do look nice.
A few of the rail bases are broke. I think im just going to go with aftermarket ones.
They seem to be thicker. And someone already replaced one with the am type
That makes sense if you have some broken ones. Mine were chrome plated bronze, not stainless.
aaronbocknek wrote:wow those are nice. who did your re-chroming? i'd love to have my throttle/transmission handles and covers redone. they look a bit tired. then again, so do i these days. hey, maybe I need a complete refit!!!
i'm also curious how your cleats attach matt. i have the same ones and i am just unsure what they look like from underneath.
Aaron, all of my chrome was done by New England Chrome, one of my friends does alot of business with them. They are located in East Hartford CT.
okay. maybe it's the early hour, or maybe i took the 'short bus' to class. the bolt assembly is attached to the underside of the cleat as a single unit or does the cleat have threads and the bolt screws into the cleat from under the deck? and how does one obtain replacement bolts if the need arises?
i also checked out new england chrome on the web. i'm going to contact them. shame. i had a 30 hr layover there last week and they are not too far from our hotel. okay....off to work.
As for my cleats, they are thru bolted from under the deck. I can't remember the bolt size off the top of my head, I can get the correct size if you need them. All of my cleats showed no signs of any type of bedding compound at all. (which led to most of my coring issues) All but a few of the bolts were badly rusted, to almost half of their original diameter and snapped trying to get them out. I saved a few of them and can post a picture for you. The bolts were steel, and the backing plates were plywood. I'm glad I didn't find out the hard way
