Trojan Boat Forum

I like to be thorough about things. After the cooling system has been winterized, and the engine has been run the last time for the year, I pull the plugs and spray fogging oil directly into each cylinder. I bump the starter to spread the oil onto the cylinder walls, then I stick the fogging oil tube into the combustion chamber and rotate the little red tube on the fogging oil to spray oil directly onto the cylinder walls. That way I minimize the use of oil which might be expelled unburned into the water, and maximize the amount of coverage. I put a slight bend in the very end so that the oil goes onto the walls, and doesn't just lay on the cylinder.

I made a new curved tube this year. It took me a few tries to get it right, and it ended-up being a little short, cutting off the failed attempts at forming the end just so. While spinning the tube to spray the oil directly onto the cylinder walls this year, the tube fell into the combustion chamber. As Scooby Doo would say "Rot roh!"

I have a miniature USB camera that fits into a sparkplug hole. I have it because I like to inspect my cylinders and cylinder walls for corrosion. Yes, it is true, I am OCD. I used said camera to locate the offending tube. I could see it, but not exactly reach it. I'll cut to the chase -- I ended-up buying some alligator hemostats.

I blew compressed air into the combustion chamber until I could see the tube through the sparkplug hole. It took a few iterations, but eventually it was visible. I carefully placed the alligator hemostats through the hole and removed the wrenched ankle. Or something like that. Here is a picture of my success, as well as a good look at the hemos themselves. I recommend having a pair onboard, as they are extremely useful at getting things in tight spaces.


My little victory:




My secret weapon. That's a six-inch machinist's rule:

Good save . Hemostats can be very handy as can be a bore scope ( cam)

I have heard alot of guys fog there engines, I do not what I do is when I go up and check the boat usually every 2 to 4 weeks through out the winter or after a bad storm it is only a 40 minute drive, I bump the starter on both engines, I leave the batteries in the boat and do not disconnect them so this is possible without always having to connect them, then disconnect them, seems to work fine, if the boat was laid up for a very long time I would fog them, but seeing as it is only for the winter this method seems to work, I am quite sure I heard of this method from Prowlersfish a couple of years back.

Craig

That's my preferred method ( well running the boat year round really is ) . If I felt I needed to fog I would do it through the carb running as it will do a much better job of lubing the valves .

With my previous fuel injected boat, I would connect the engine to a tank of gasoline/fogging oil mix and fog the engine. With this boat, I can't do that because of the carburetor. Several articles on the internet (so it must be true ) state that conventional oil will cling to the cylinder walls for more than 6 months. Synthetic oil is much more "slippery", and does not cling to the cylinder walls for as long. Since I use conventional oil and only store my boat over the winter for approximately 6 months, I don't worry about fogging my engine. I just change the oil in the fall and run it with the new oil for a few minutes to distribute the new oil throughout the engine. So far I haven't had any problems. Time will tell I guess.

prowlersfish wrote:...If I felt I needed to fog I would do it through the carb running as it will do a much better job of lubing the valves .

This is the preferred method I believe, however, there are more than one was to skin a cat and if you have a particular method that works, why change it?

bjanakos wrote:

prowlersfish wrote:...If I felt I needed to fog I would do it through the carb running as it will do a much better job of lubing the valves .

This is the preferred method I believe, however, there are more than one was to skin a cat and if you have a particular method that works, why change it?

Did not say they should . Just responding to a post That said something about a post I did years ago and my preferred way and why . If it works for you do it .

I never fog unless I know an engine will be laid up for more than a winter. I've started a lot of arguments because of that though

Big D wrote:I never fog unless I know an engine will be laid up for more than a winter. I've started a lot of arguments because of that though

Glad you said it , I wasn't going there but I do agree .Thats why I said IF I was to fog .

You know how many guys have asked me "how do you fog a deisel?" I love playing along

Diesels must be scared of fogging ..... cuse if you try they will run away ..... . I sure you will get the bad joke Big D

I always Fogg my boats and ones I work on, it's little effort, cost almost nothing, I use marvel mystery oil down the carburetor. For years I've changed the oil in the spring, trying to get in the habit of doing it in the winter as everything I've read recommend that to remove old deposits

Several years I was fogging the cylinders on my jet boat. Had the engine out on a storage cart for the winter. Had the plugs out and squirting away at each cylinder. Then I noticed the red tube I had been using wasn't on the can anymore. Hmmm wonder where that went.... yup into a cylinder. Fortunately, those heads used the big ol taper seat plugs so I used a mechanical finger deal and pulled it right out. Those plug holes are big enough you can actually see in! Got lucky.

K4282 wrote:....For years I've changed the oil in the spring, trying to get in the habit of doing it in the winter as everything I've read recommend that to remove old deposits

Differeing opinions on this topic too for various reasons but I always do them at the end of each season.