Trojan Boat Forum

I tried to get some work done today, but even with my 2000w heater going full blast, I could barley get it above freezing...

I had planned on removing the sliding side locker doors in the salon to take home and refinish. I figured they would l lift and tilt, but I was dead wrong... So I figured I can remove the middle trim piece and it seems like it is all glued together as an entire frame. So I started to take that out and it looked like the whole panel comes out as a whole... Not a big deal as maybe I'll take the entire thing home.

But there is still the matter of the doors. I think it will be best to remove them to varnish them. The only thing I could think of was to remove the entire frame and then slide them out the sides.

Then I got tired of being cold....

Well I solved that same puzzle on my f36 tricabin. You have to take the bottom aluminum tracks loose, push inward then they drop down and can be taken out.

Side locker doors not aft sliding doors.
Put your head inside the locker and at the top of each locker door/panel there is a pair of plastic tongue adjusters held on by two screws. Undo screws and then remove plastic tongue... now you can lift door tops up and in so you can take them out bottom first. Start by pushing two to one side to free up space to remove the third one. QED

I'll give that a try this morning. Thanks for the quick response.

I had brass/bronze/some sort of goldish platel metal tongues and removing them did the trick. Cant wait to put it back together.

It was a bit of a puzzle as one door would block the other, but we got the tongues off the center door, tilted it out and pushed it back, then did the forward, then a aft and finagled them out. Then the center door came out. Whew!

my "tongues" went all the way across and were built in and milled out a wood product, I wish they would have come out that easy.

They are side locker doors that slide on mine not rear doors.

I was going to swing by the hardware store later and see if anything was available in the screen door section that I can use as upgrades. The bottom guides were plastic runners that ran on the bottom track. I'm sure it could all use a good cleaning and some silicone spray, but the thought crossed my mind to try and fit some rollers... Then I thought about high seas and the door slamming back on fourth.

bjanakos wrote:I was going to swing by the hardware store later and see if anything was available in the screen door section that I can use as upgrades. The bottom guides were plastic runners that ran on the bottom track. I'm sure it could all use a good cleaning and some silicone spray, but the thought crossed my mind to try and fit some rollers... Then I thought about high seas and the door slamming back on fourth.

I cleaned mine up and now they do open on their own in certain seas. Still ahead of the game because they are easier to open. I would say no to rollers unless you made latches.

could use Velcro straps for sliders moving in seas. Just a suggestion

larryeddington wrote:Well I solved that same puzzle on my f36 tricabin. You have to take the bottom aluminum tracks loose, push inward then they drop down and can be taken out.

I may try this to put it back...

bjanakos wrote:

larryeddington wrote:Well I solved that same puzzle on my f36 tricabin. You have to take the bottom aluminum tracks loose, push inward then they drop down and can be taken out.

I may try this to put it back...

I do not believe the F32 has aluminium tracks for the side salon doors. I believe they are plastic E channel and the door base has U sliders that are nailed into it and they ride on the fingers of the E. All this from memory and at my age I have been known to get mixed up. Pssst don't tell the Admiral as she thinks I'm always right!

Each of my slide doors glide on round nylon roller captured and sliding inside an inverted aluminum C track. Each door has it's own track.

larryeddington wrote:Each of my slide doors glide on round nylon roller captured and sliding inside an inverted aluminum C track. Each door has it's own track.

And that is how the Tri differs from the F32. The OP has an F32 same year as mine.

Yes, it is how ready123 described, but it looks like that E-channel can by un-screwed and moved.

bjanakos wrote:Yes, it is how ready123 described, but it looks like that E-channel can by un-screwed and moved.

Mine are actually stapled down, which means they can be moved but can't think of a reason other than to replace the channel.