Trojan Boat Forum

Has anyone replaced the original steel fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb on a model 350/ 454? I'm in the process of installing edelbrock 1410 carbs and am trying to figure out the best way to run the fuel lines as the original ones are not a direct fit.
from doing a bit of research online it appears the originals are prone to rust and failure over time. I am a bit Leary of running rubber lines from the fuel pump directly to the carb because of the limited places to secure the line as well as the proximity of the line to the hot engine.

I was thinking about trying to find replacement steel lines to go from the pump, up the side of the engine and across the intake. I could then attach a barb and switch to flex line to make the attachment to the new carb. this would also make it easier to ad a additional in line fuel filter.

has anyone come up with something safe that works?

Also, is there a need for a rubber insulating carburetor gasket when using the original plastic wedge plate or will a regular gasket be sufficient? the original had a thick rubber gasket.
Thanks

You just go to the auto store and buy some steel fuel line and bend it yourself. Take the old one with you so they can match up the length and fittings.

Of course you will need a tube bender...


You may have to buy a straight length of tube and fittings separately and use a flare tool to flare the ends.


Both of these tools are probably available for free rental at any of the major auto parts stores; probably your most cost effective option.

agreed, buy some brake line and grab a bender, not a bad job, heating with torches helps prevent kinking, then respray it with some paint

The standard now is steel lines. Hoses in that location will be a red flag on a survey which the insurance company will likely make you correct later. If you feel the need for an in-line filter, it must be the threaded type. No rubber, clamps, etc. should be used for this line. I once thought that this may be a good application for braided stainless steel line until it showed up in someone's survey that one can't tell the type of rubber being used under the braid unless it is specifically labeled properly. The lines had to be removed!

Thanks guys! I was not aware of the rubber line being an insurance issue ? I personally like the idea of using steel lines again. It looks like im going to need to refine my bending skills if I need to get all the way from the pump to the carb in a orderly fashion! Edelbrock recommends a inline fuel filter be installed just before the carb since their carbs do not have an internal filter like the old qjets.
After reading post from other sites this swap to edelbrock from qjet seemed simple, new rubber fuel line, in line filter and a few hose clamps! it never ceases to amaze me how the difficulty of a so called "simple" project increases exponentially when it is done correctly! You would think Id know better by now! LOL!
Hopefully I can find a way to thread the filter directly to the carb and run my new line to the filter.

A tube bending trick I learned while making a copper coil with many loops from 1/4 tube. Fill it with baking soda, or salt or the best pouring is glass bead for sand blasting. Fill the tube and tape the ends closed. You can make very sharp bends with the tool pictured above and the tube won't collapse.
You can then pour out the powder and rinse in water....good to go!

I have the same bender noted above but like working more with the spring type benders. I find them easier to work with. Used them all the time in refrigedration.
http://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-Ins ... B00004T827

It might call for a double flare which takes a similar flare tool but with the mandrels for doubling the flare. Fairly easy to do and more secure.IMO

I have an old Land Rover and when I did the brake lines I could not get them right.... Then I read up on it and it uses a "British" flare which is kind of like a flattened out bubble flare.

the new steel brake lines - NAPA are reasonably KINK FREE if you use a bender.

Why bother with a flaring tool when you can buy a ready made line?

K.I.S.S.

RWS

RWS wrote:Why bother with a flaring tool when you can buy a ready made line?

That was my suggestion if he couldn't find the ready-made lines first.

Thanks Guys,
The old line was a single flare. I cant purchase a pre made one because the edelbrock carb was not an option on my engine. If I used the old qjets that would have been an option. I already have a flaring tool, just need a tubing bender!
Is steel brake line ok to use for fuel line or is there a better option?
Now I need to find a filter that will work properly.

It should be a double flare

If you decide to go the filled-tube route, try the following:

Fold-over one end of the tube so that it will hold in the filler material.
Pour in some of your filler.
Pack it in tightly with a rod.
Fill some more, and pack some more until full.
Fold-over the other end and have at it.
I prefer to use something water soluble as filler, usually sugar.

I have also had good results with the external spring-type tubing bender, which doesn't require extra tubing length for sealing-in the filler material. Of course a good lever-type tubing bender will likely yield the coolest looking installation. The one in the picture looks to be a decent model, sporting a proper radius on the fixed and stationary jaws.

IT’S THE LAW - USCG:
183.538 Metallic fuel line materials.
Each metallic fuel line connecting the fuel tank with the fuel inlet connection on the
engine must:
(a) be made of seamless annealed copper, nickel copper, or copper nickel; and
(b) except for corrugated flexible fuel line, have a minimum wall thickness of 0.029
inches.
If metal is used for any portion of the fuel line (except for fittings) from the tank connection to
the engine connection (usually at the fuel pump), the metallic fuel line portions must be seamless,
annealed:
(1) Copper;
(2) Nickel copper (Monel); or
(3) Copper-nickel.
No other metals are permitted.
Also, the thickness of the tubing wall must be at least 0.029 inches unless the fuel line portion is
a corrugated or accordion type of flexible fuel line. Tubing is available with thinner wall
thicknesses, but they SHALL NOT be used.
Metal fuel lines used on the engine, i.e. the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor, may be
made of materials other than those listed. This line is usually supplied with the engine