Trojan Boat Forum

Any thought on using 1200 wet/dry for removing this! Maybe a different grit.

I have used it wet on my transom any to remove painted lettering on my bow , so I believe you could carefully . But I would recommend you try 3M Marine Restore .

Very difficult to answer without more information. Wet sanding gelcoat is the next thing to re-painting. Worst case situation. Many procedures come before this move. The condition of the gelcoat has to be determined. I recommend an inspection by a qualified professional polisher. The amount of gelcoat that remains on the substrate will determine if wet sanding is possible. How deteriorated it is (oxidation) will determine what is needed to bring it back to a shine that can be waxed to protect the restored gelcoat.

jimbo36 wrote:Very difficult to answer without more information. Wet sanding gelcoat is the next thing to re-painting. Worst case situation. Many procedures come before this move. The condition of the gelcoat has to be determined. I recommend an inspection by a qualified professional polisher. The amount of gelcoat that remains on the substrate will determine if wet sanding is possible. How deteriorated it is (oxidation) will determine what is needed to bring it back to a shine that can be waxed to protect the restored gelcoat.

I agree, especially with the typical Trojan vintage. If the gel is thin in some spots and chances are it is, you may sand right through in those areas. Once that happens, it's too late and you can't take it back. At that point it becomes a repair.

There is a place for wet sanding but only after careful assessment and consideration of current conditions. A multi stage polish with a more aggressive compound on the first stage may do the trick and set the stage for a successful outcome by the time the whole process is completed. It will also be the base for a finish that should get better if you then keep it up by doing a regular polish for the next two years. Once you get it to that point, you can pull back a bit, just use products that will help protect the finish between polishes.

Our boat was heavily oxidized as well when we got her. I started with a mild to heavy rubbing compound using a power orbital buffer at slow speed. Not happy with what I got without a LOT of buffing, I resorted to wet sanding. But I used 1400 first using water misting with dish soap added to the water. then migrated to 2000, then final sanding was with 2400. Then the compound did a wonderful job, using Mild first and super fine to give it the glass look.

Gelcoat is actually fairly thick, realativey speaking, and wet sanding does not remove much gel, it is removing the oxidization. You will feel the sand paper slide easily when the rough oxidization is removed. You will need to sand quite a bit to get through the gel. Good common sense is rule of thumb.

I had about 40+ hours into all this, and am not disappointed.

I can only recommend one simple philosophy... start with something mild, and go to more aggressive solutions only if it doesn't work. Meguiar's makes a heavy duty colour restorer that may work, or the 3M Marine Restore as has been previously posted. Once the gel is gone, it's gone. Only go to more aggressive solutions if you really need to. I have been using Meguiar's polish and wax products on my '79 F32 for 17 years, and people with late 80's and 90's vintage boats ask me how to make theirs look as good... Make sure you need something beyond that before you resort to sandpaper.

jimmy, FYI, orbital buffers are used for waxing only. You need a power buffer at 1500 RPM to get results with compounds or other polishes. Orbital buffers are low speed for waxing as they do not create high temperatures that would remove the wax you are trying to apply. I use my buffer for wax set at 500 RPM. AWAY, I would try a test spot with a light grit compound on the most highly oxidized surface and go to a higher grit if it is not cutting enough. Yes, this is trial and error. As previously stated, you only have so much gelcoat to sacrifice. Be careful on corners as the buffer will cut faster on the edges. Good luck.

Jimbo, correct, I used a variable speed buffer set to 1400 rpms, and went higher pressing very lightly with the finer compound. Used wool pad for heavier compound, and went with the 3M foam pad for finer grit. Important thing to point out. Many think the harder you press, the better the compound works. Not true, all hader pressing does is create heat, heat is detrimental to the process, Let the compound work, light even pressure and working in small areas is key, and a little compound goes a long way.

Not a big fan of the orbial buffers...... I do all waxing by hand. Not sure why I said "orbital buffer"

Our boat was extremely oxidized, it took a lot of carefull wet sanding, and buffing, but she now shines like new. Now it is just keeping it waxed to seal the pores and protect. Not once did I feel I came close to going through the gel. But each boat is different so use caution and dont try to rush it.

Jimmy wrote:Jimbo, correct, I used a variable speed buffer set to 1400 rpms, and went higher pressing very lightly with the finer compound. Used wool pad for heavier compound, and went with the 3M foam pad for finer grit. Important thing to point out. Many think the harder you press, the better the compound works. Not true, all hader pressing does is create heat, heat is detrimental to the process, Let the compound work, light even pressure and working in small areas is key, and a little compound goes a long way.

Not a big fan of the orbial buffers...... I do all waxing by hand. Not sure why I said "orbital buffer"

Our boat was extremely oxidized, it took a lot of carefull wet sanding, and buffing, but she now shines like new. Now it is just keeping it waxed to seal the pores and protect. Not once did I feel I came close to going through the gel. But each boat is different so use caution and dont try to rush it.

+1 agreed.

Hey now I love gelcoat - but have you seen what people are doing with paint these days????

I would not be afraid to sand at all.... The aggressiveness of the abrasive and time/effort are relative. No mater what you do, you are still going to have to remove the same amount of oxidation to achieve your intended result. It's just a matter how quick you want to get there.

Go with the least aggressive you can, but still make progress. Maguires #91 and a rotary buffer is about as aggressive as you can go using a compound. If you are not getting at least a dull sheen with 1 pass break out the sand paper.

Start with a small area and do some test runs. Work you way backward (more aggressive) until you start breaking through the oxidation. Then work you way back up to a final polish. I've gone down as low at 600 grit to work off the worst oxidation.

Jimmy wrote:Jimbo, correct, I used a variable speed buffer set to 1400 rpms, and went higher pressing very lightly with the finer compound. Used wool pad for heavier compound, and went with the 3M foam pad for finer grit. Important thing to point out. Many think the harder you press, the better the compound works. Not true, all hader pressing does is create heat, heat is detrimental to the process, Let the compound work, light even pressure and working in small areas is key, and a little compound goes a long way.

Not a big fan of the orbial buffers...... I do all waxing by hand. Not sure why I said "orbital buffer"

Our boat was extremely oxidized, it took a lot of carefull wet sanding, and buffing, but she now shines like new. Now it is just keeping it waxed to seal the pores and protect. Not once did I feel I came close to going through the gel. But each boat is different so use caution and dont try to rush it.

Jimmy, we have the same boat and ours was in salt water and sun for 28 years. We now have her in a covered berth on the Delta and need to address the top sides that are heavily oxidized. This is mostly "Non-skid". Did you use the same method here or did you use something different?

"Top sides" is the hull from the waterline to the gunwales. Do you mean decks?

Billdean, yes, I wet sanded the entire boat. One thing that was tough to do and get well were all the small pockets on the non skid. All those little pockets were just as oxidized (probably worse) and seemed to absorb any compound and left it looking yellow. So, I wet sanded the whole deck, then started with a heavier compound with a really thick (basically new) wool pad. I then buffed this until I felt I got as much of the oxidization out of the pockets as I could. Before I polished with the fine pad, I used Acetone on a rag to clean out the pores. Probably a little excessive on that part but it did brighten up the deck. I then finished with super fine compound. Must say, I am very pleased with it.

Then 2 coats of fleet paste wax. Shines like a newborn, and slippery when wet......

FYI the black rubrail base (mine was basically white) I also used Acetone on this as well and you has to rub the dickkens out of it, but it will also blacken up nice and then used automotive black restore products to protect this as well.

Good luck with all the elbow grease you have coming, I grin every time the sun glistens off the deck.

Enjoy!