Prop puller tricks
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Prop puller tricks
I've searched the forum and have found much about what to do to install a prop properly (filing the key, big nut/small nut controversey, etc.), but have not found much about removing the prop.
I have twin inboards on a 10 meter 1987 Trojan Int. that is stored in heated indoor storage (about 55 degrees). The cotter pin has been removed and the nuts have been backed off. I have a prop puller. I was wondering just how much muscle it will take to pull the prop from the shaft. I was using a 2' leverage bar to turn the thread on the prop puller and it's still not pulling the prop all that much. Looks to have slid a little bit, but stopped to do some research before I used too much force or something. The way it was going, I may have to get a longer leverage bar.
Should I heat the area a little bit with a propane torch? (Could that hurt the cutlass bearings?) Would lube sprays work in this case around the area?
How do you guys get it done? Am i on the right track, just keep turning the puller?
Thanks!!!
I have twin inboards on a 10 meter 1987 Trojan Int. that is stored in heated indoor storage (about 55 degrees). The cotter pin has been removed and the nuts have been backed off. I have a prop puller. I was wondering just how much muscle it will take to pull the prop from the shaft. I was using a 2' leverage bar to turn the thread on the prop puller and it's still not pulling the prop all that much. Looks to have slid a little bit, but stopped to do some research before I used too much force or something. The way it was going, I may have to get a longer leverage bar.
Should I heat the area a little bit with a propane torch? (Could that hurt the cutlass bearings?) Would lube sprays work in this case around the area?
How do you guys get it done? Am i on the right track, just keep turning the puller?
Thanks!!!
Put one nut back on flush with the end of the shaft. This does 2 things, one it protects the threads on the shaft and second when the prop comes free it stops it from flying too far.
Wes is correct it should suddenly pop free. I have used a torch to heat the barrel of the prop a bit, not nearly hot enough to affect the cutlass.
Good luck and keep your hands clear of the props outer diameter to avoid injury when it pops.
Wes is correct it should suddenly pop free. I have used a torch to heat the barrel of the prop a bit, not nearly hot enough to affect the cutlass.
Good luck and keep your hands clear of the props outer diameter to avoid injury when it pops.
- prowlersfish
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What type of puller are you using ? If you are using the type that has 2 large thread rods make sure you keep the 2 arms close to being lined up with each other or it will bind up and you will be fighting your self .
Boating is good for the soul
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat

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Warm the prop gradually to 80-100 degrees F with a propane torch, put a load on the puller and tap either the prop or the end of the shaft with a brass hammer and it should pop off. It should not take a 2 foot cheater bar or pentrating oil. If it has moved a little and still is not loose, something was wrong when it was put on.
1980 F-36 with 6BTA 250 Cummins enjoying the Sounds and coastal waters of North Carolina
- prowlersfish
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Danny , that why asked the type of puller . it could haver broken lose and then the puller started binding . I loaned mine out and that happen . ( damaged the puller after the puller was removed you could tap the props off.
Boating is good for the soul
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat

i would check the key also. i would tap the prop back on and check the end of the key, sometimes they get bunged up. maybe try a three jaw puller and an impact wrench, the jarring from the impact will help. just make sure your not screwing up the threads!
life is tough! it's even tougher if your stupid.
~john wayne~
~john wayne~
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I also remove my prop from my F25 today. I did not have access to a torch so I took old school trick I remembered and used a Flare , do you know how hot they get? The flare burns very hot, ~2000 oC. But the fumes are not good, but I used small fan to blow the fumes away. As I was heating it I used rubber mallet taped on it and it came lose.. I am removing the drive shaft now, Its not turned out so well. I want to do a surface check on the drive shaft and make sure its not bent. One of the square bolts are broke off in the flange. I want to know where the V drive hook to the motor is there oil in between it? If I remove it will oil come out? Ill post couple photos.






Trojan
** F25 Hardtop - Express - 1974 - 25 ft
** F26 Hardtop - Express - 1971 - 26 ft
** F25 Hardtop - Express - 1974 - 25 ft
** F26 Hardtop - Express - 1971 - 26 ft
- prowlersfish
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- prowlersfish
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Not safe at all . a torch in the right hands is safer for sure . you can turn a torch off . it may have worked but that just crazy IMO. there is no sub.for the ringt tools.Rodman wrote:was not using a flare gun. Just hand held flare to heat with. Was not dangerous at all if you are out in the open.
Boating is good for the soul
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat
77/78 TROJAN F36 Conv.
6BTA Cummins diesels
Life is to short for a ugly boat

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