Skylight

Vitaliy · Post by **Vitaliy** » Thu Oct 18, 2012 5:12 pm

Just wanted to see peoples opinions about adding a skylight to the boat....
74 f36 tri

i need to cut a hole in the roof anywyas to get some of the old stuff out of the boat when i get back as they wont fit through the door so the liner and the roof will need repair anywyas....

i have two skylights at my disposal that are 28 inches wide and 70 winches long, that dont open, i was wondering how much of a good idea it would be to just cut the holes and install those in.... would it effect the structural integrety? what can i do to gain some of it back?, i have plenty of play room so no beams will have to be cut, and the skylight is only an inch deep so all i would have to do is just replace the headliner and silicone it well..

any ideas or suggestions? seems like a fairly simple weekend project with basic tools....

k9th · Post by **k9th** » Thu Oct 18, 2012 6:07 pm

I've seen photos of others who have added a skylight. My tri has the factory access hatch to remove engines etc so that space can be used without structural problems. I would make sure I reinforced the area around it. I can walk on my access hatch so it is very strong. Not sure you would want to walk on a skylight. Adding one my hinder your access to the windshield and other items in that area.

Just some things to consider

Vitaliy · Post by **Vitaliy** » Thu Oct 18, 2012 7:38 pm

i have also considered that issue however after looking into it the are where the skylight will be will leave about 3 feet of walking space ontop, there are 3 beams that go straight port to starboard and one down the center line to support the weight of someone walking there, i was considering adding the skylights down each side of that central support beam and then reinforcing it with fiberglass and maybe adding another beam frame around it and fiberglass it in to give some structural support....

so in theory only the fiberglass will be effected and a support structure around the actual window will be fiberglass in on each side... and i don't see why one couldn't step on it if need be, but no they werent designed to be walked on even thou the plexi is 1/2 inch thick.

i wouldn't even be considering this if it wasn't for the fact that i already have them, and that i need to make a hole since i don't have the same hatch you do.

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Thu Oct 18, 2012 7:50 pm

that roof is also balsa cored so the exposed core will need to be infused with resin/epoxy so as not to absorb water if those hatches leak.

Vitaliy · Post by **Vitaliy** » Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:37 pm

aaron, it looked to me as if it was just straight fiberglass, doesn't look like there's any wood at all in there... however i might be wrong

any suggestion on what to treat it with? a good resin for the job?

also if i do end up doing the job that whole hatch will be epoxied in, not just silicone to ensure that there will be no leaks

Vitaliy · Post by **Vitaliy** » Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:40 pm

was also wondering what a good material for the headliner would be....

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Thu Oct 18, 2012 8:50 pm

Vitaliy wrote:aaron, it looked to me as if it was just straight fiberglass, doesn't look like there's any wood at all in there... however i might be wrong

any suggestion on what to treat it with? a good resin for the job?

also if i do end up doing the job that whole hatch will be epoxied in, not just silicone to ensure that there will be no leaks

all decks areas are cored on a trojan, especially our vintage. since it's balsa it will absorb resin like a sponge. i did this to my anchor hasp cut out last year. i just kept brushing the solution on the wood. i might not have done it correctly, but it worked. maybe folks out there can fill in the information that i do not have.

Vitaliy · Post by **Vitaliy** » Thu Oct 18, 2012 9:27 pm

well if thats the case then it shouldn't be a problem at all, a gallon of resin is like $30ish, will just have to account the dry time for it, another idea that came to mind is to just use fiberglass strips and overlay the original glass and encase the wood with a full new layer.... the flange for the skylight sticks out for about 3 inches so a full overlap shouldn't be a problem, just send it down later and put it right on top, should also give some more stability for the area if anyone steps neer the windows up top.

k9th · Post by **k9th** » Thu Oct 18, 2012 10:55 pm

Vitaliy wrote:was also wondering what a good material for the headliner would be....

Make sure the headliner has the small holes which allows it to breathe or you will have a huge problem on your hands.

aaronbocknek · Post by **aaronbocknek** » Fri Oct 19, 2012 5:02 am

k9th wrote:
Vitaliy wrote:was also wondering what a good material for the headliner would be....
Make sure the headliner has the small holes which allows it to breathe or you will have a huge problem on your hands.

+1 tim.

Vitaliy · Post by **Vitaliy** » Fri Oct 19, 2012 2:51 pm

ive noticed that about the headliner as well, just gota find a place to get omse of that material, shouldn't be a problem finding it online

lawyerdave71 · Post by **lawyerdave71** » Fri Oct 19, 2012 3:03 pm

Yeah you should have no problem finding the headliner material online!

Vitaliy · Post by **Vitaliy** » Fri Oct 19, 2012 8:09 pm

found it on ebay at 20 bux a yard

lawyerdave71 · Post by **lawyerdave71** » Fri Oct 19, 2012 10:58 pm

wow that was cheap!!!!!

Vitaliy · Post by **Vitaliy** » Sat Oct 20, 2012 2:25 pm

how much is it normally? there are several guys on ebay that got it for sale at 20-13 and about 5 bux for shiping