going to try winterizing this year

[dfg4240]

twin 440 chryslers
after all the reading of posts and videos I decided to try it myself.
I know how to do the air conditioner and the generator but for the engines I was going to remove the drain plugs and drain the engine.
I have to look at the manual to see where they are and then I was going to remove the drain plugs from the riser and manifolds on the raw water system.
I was just going to drain the engine block and leave it at that but some say it is not enough so I was thinking of removing the thermostat and pouring it in and also the inlet to the manifolds and pour it in there also. That would be after the engines were heated and the oil changed.After the oil change I was going to pull the plugs and fog the cylinders and carbs.Would this be enough?
thanks
dfg4240

[todd brinkerhoff]

How bout using some pink antifreeze on your raw water side until you see it exit your exhaust.

[LandVF36]

I'm a fan of the pink RV antifreeze as well.

My winterization process of the engines is to first put 1 qt of Seafoam in each gas tank 1 week prior to pull out. I like to put the old girl away knowing that there is something to stabliize the fuel that will sit in the carbs all winter as its impossible to winterize the way I do and get the dry of fuel.

Then, I normally change the oil the morning of haul out after taking at least a 15 cruise above 2000 RPM. If you don't have oil drain lines on the bottom of the oil pans that you can just pump out the oil, think about doing so the first chance you get.

Then the winterizing process:
1) get the boat blocked on land and as soon as possible while the engine is still at least warm.
2) remove drain plugs, one each side at bottom center of block (just above oil pan), 4 on each exhaust manifold (normally 2 on the log section and 2 on the elbows.
3) remove and let drain the large 2" hose from thermostat housing to pump.
4) replace all plugs and hoses.
5) disconnect raw water intake line from through hull fitting and insert funnel.
6) start engine and run 4-5 gal of pink antifreeze, the -50 stuff, until full strength pink is coming out the exhausts, then shut down and reconnect intake.

Knock on wood, but I'm about 20yrs+ on this plan with no problems. People that just pour in from the thermostat housing don't seem to get all the little nooks and crannies filled, including the water going through the oil cooler and tranny cooler lines. Running the 4-5 gallons through using the engine as the pump seems to solve that problem.

Goodluck

[dfg4240]

could I get away with just draining the block and manifold and riser and not use antifreeze?

[todd brinkerhoff]

could I get away with just draining the block and manifold and riser and not use antifreeze?

I think you are taking a risk by not pulling antifreeze through the engine, heat exchanger and manifolds. Its cheap security for me. I do the same thing with the generator also.

[Big D]

could I get away with just draining the block and manifold and riser and not use antifreeze?

Some say don't use antifreeze because if you simply drain the block and leave it empty, air won't freeze. When I hear this I know the person either works on stern drives all the time or hasn't worked much on these older vintage boats. The concept is great IF you can get ALL the water out which may be possible in a newer application where the engine is not mounted on a slope (still wouldn't take the chance). For your typical inboard without an angled output tranny where the engine is on an angle, you'll never get all the water out. The best you can hope for is to dilute the left over water enough with the non-tox to prevent freezing. You'll also find that Mopar 440 drains are further forward than GMs. Some have gone as far as removing the rear most frost plug and modifying a new plug with a valve to drain even more water. Do as recommended above and use the pink stuff. Do it with the engine running and through the raw water intake so you cover the entire cooling circuit. Drain your coolers, all low lying hoses, and don't forget mufflers also, and always bump her over a few seconds to get water out of the pump etc. before you replace the plugs. The pink stuff is diluted and rated for a certain burst protection. The more water left in the system, the more you will dilute the solution and decrease its protection. Can't stress enough to also probe each drain with something, especially the manifolds. I use a zip tie! If you don't, crud will block all the water from getting out and you'll think it's done draining. You will pay dearly for the oversight. I don't warm her up first, most marine t-stats allow some flow even when closed but you should always confirm by pulling a plug after you're done and look for pink stuff. I do it this way and have never had an issue. Nothing wrong with doing as stated above though with oil change, warm up, haulout right away, etc. but don't take for granted that it's done right, always check the block and manifolds for pink then you'll rest easy over the winter and won't be starting a thread here in the Spring about chocolate coloured oil. This is also when you want to change your fuel filters!

[The Dog House]

Always run pink antifreeze through your engine. There are so many nooks and crannys that do not drain when you pull the drain plugs that you really want the water replaced with antifreeze. Five gallons of pink antifreeze should be plenty, but I run ten gallons through because pink antifreeze is cheap and engines are expensive. After running ten gallons of antifreeze through I pull the drain plugs and leave them out for the Winter. If anything is going to freeze I want to make sure the air can easily escape and whatever is freezing has plenty of room to expand. This strategy has worked well so far.

[dfg4240]

you guys are scarring me.
I can let the marina do it for $110 each. Problem is that I don't know when they will pull the boat out and if I did it your way won't it all run out when they start it and drive it to where the hoist is located?

by pulling the thermostat and pouring it in and the same with the exhausts pour it in after draining all the water out I can do this after it is out of the water.
I could Just have a couple of big cans under the exhaust and I can even start it and run it drawing from the intake hose without heating up the engine because there is no thermostat in the way.
dfg4240

[blair]

could I get away with just draining the block and manifold and riser and not use antifreeze?

You could, and you might get away with it, depending on how cold it gets over the winter. Being new to this size boat and winterizing for my first time last year I did something similar because I had to haul it quickly and didn't get a chance to run antifreeze before hauling. I then took off the top hoses, etc and backfilled with antifreeze, then drained all the blocks, risers, hoses,etc. And then it got cold...like -25 C cold...and all I could think about was "I hope I did this well enough that the blocks don't freeze"...it was a long and agonizing winter and not one I want to go through again.
I was lucky...no problems. But I can assure you, if you watch any number of forums, including tis one, there is no shortage of "first-timers" who miseed something, like the small nooks and crannies of water passages.Then, in the Spring, the posts start to roll in about water/oil mixed in the crankcase. I'm planing on doing it right this year...run the pink stuff before you pull it. After last winter I wish I had spent the $$ getting a pro to do it and allowing me to watch.
TL;DR - you can do it that way, but you're better to do it right and rest easy when the temps drop to block cracking levels. You'll be glad you did AND you will learn more about your boat. I sure did.
bp
PS: Don't forget about the exhaust system and generator, too.

[blair]

You would do it when it's on the hoist, ready to be pulled. Le the operator know you need it on the hoist for about 30 minutes after they lift it. But at $110 / engine, that's a pretty good price. You would be better off to pay them $150/engine the first time, they let you watch

[Big D]

....Problem is that I don't know when they will pull the boat out....by pulling the thermostat and pouring it in and the same with the exhausts pour it in after draining all the water out I can do this after it is out of the water....

No reason why you can't do any of the above suggestions after she gets hauled out, even running the engines on land. In fact, I prefer doing/running them on land to winterize. Do everything else in the water to get a head start like water system, head, but engines and gen can be run out of the water if you're running antifreeze through them.

[Big D]

.....I pull the drain plugs and leave them out for the Winter.....

It's a good concept for obvious reasons but unless you treat the block threads, they will rust and eventually start chewing up your brass plugs. I've had to chase tons of block and manifold threads because so many guys in the industry used to do this. Also consider that empty blocks and manifolds will accumilate yet another small layer of rust every winter. Won't happen if they're full. I'm sure there's an argument for every point of view

[The Dog House]

.....I pull the drain plugs and leave them out for the Winter.....

It's a good concept for obvious reasons but unless you treat the block threads, they will rust and eventually start chewing up your brass plugs. I've had to chase tons of block and manifold threads because so many guys in the industry used to do this. Also consider that empty blocks and manifolds will accumilate yet another small layer of rust every winter. Won't happen if they're full. I'm sure there's an argument for every point of view

I haven't noticed any rust on the threads so far but I guess there could be a microscopic layer. I do make sure the bilge is dry and place a large dessicator in the engine room before the boat gets shrink wrapped so the air around the engine is pretty dry. I'll definitely keep my eye out for any rust starting on the engine threads.

[Big D]

When I'm done winterizing, all systems are launch ready. I don't leave any hoses, plugs, etc off. The only thing I have to do prior to launch is hook up the negative side of the batteries. And remember that you must leave the seacocks open during the winter.

[dfg4240]

Well thanks for all the replies. I am going down there tomorrow and talk to Barretts. He always told me if I can do some work myself that it would save a lot of money.He is an honest guy and I really like him.It's easy to see why people like to keep their boats there. He's an older fellow like me but always working on something.He never ever told me he was busy but always said "can I help you". I might let him do it all the first time but I will ask if I can watch him when it comes to the engines.
thanks again.
dfg4240