1984 Tri-cabin hull drain location(s)

[P-Dogg]

Sorry for the delay. Even I haven't seen under every stanchion base on my tri (Aaron, are you chuckling?) However, all of the ones that I have seen, and it is a large percentage, are through-bolted. The process of re-bedding is not rocket science, only labor intensive. It takes two folks or 14' arms with three elbows apiece when both removing and installing. You'll want the right size driver for the screws (#3 Phillips on mine as I recall) A long driver or an extension is useful, as is a ratcheting flex box end wrench for the nuts. I recommend that you not try to re-use the screws, but maybe you need a way to fill the long winters in Canada and have time to wire-brush the old sealant off of the screws. I tried for a while, but ended-up just buying new. Not all screws are the same length, so be careful. I never heard it mentioned anywhere, but I also de-grease the hardware before I install it, in order to remove finger print oil and especially left-over cutting fluid from the manufacturing process.

Removal:
Remove old hardware. Note screw lengths.
Remove and label stanchions.
Remove old sealant from deck and stanchion.
Use a drill bit and a small powered wire brush to clean old sealant from each hole.
Cover stanchion base area with black vinyl tape. Keeps new moisture out, and black tape "attracts" heat to help dry out core if needed. If you need to re-bed, then you already have at least some moisture inside.

Installation:
Dig out core and fill the hole with epoxy if you are going to do that, then make new hole in epoxy.
Countersink the screw holes as described in the attached article.
Degrease the hardware and stanchion base.
Using the sealant of your choice, install screws, backing plates or fender washers, and nuts.
When installing nuts, remember to avoid over-tightening.
I like to use Biosolve for sealant clean-up. Just don't buy it at We$t Marine.





http://minicraft.com/colormatch.htm Send them a piece of gelcoat, like from a speaker cut-out, and they'll match the sand gelcoat for you.

An article on re-bedding hardware. Dolphinite and 4200 are also good options. Don't use 5200 unless you know who the boat's next owner is and you hate them.
http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/rebe ... are&page=1

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/be ... rdware.asp Ignore the "snug but don't tighten" advice. I understand the theory, but in practice I do not believe it is possible to keep the bolt from moving when you go back to tighten down the nut. If it does, you are worse off than if you tightened it when the sealant was wet.

Box end wrench:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/t_10153_1260 ... -flex.html I never saw the stubby ones before I looked for the link for you. May have to get some of those too....



By the way, I like the Riviera, and came close to buying one. It's got everything you need in an aft cabin boat, except space, which is I settled on the Tricab. Ask whatever questions you have. We are happy to help.
13568883