f36 stancion access
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f36 stancion access
Anyone have experienced gaining access to the underside deck in the fwd cabin of a mid 80's 36 tri to rebed and tighten loose stancions?
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P-Dogg
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Re: f36 stancion access
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9wV7h_lIqsc
I do not use that technique. I drill a pilot hole in the bung for a screw, then I screw into the bung. As the screw bears on the hidden fastener underneath, it lifts the bung from the hole. The point is that the bung is consumable. If you do something like try to pry the bung from the hole, your tool marks will be there for the life of the wood. You can buy teak bungs off the internet. I do not use glue to reinstall. I just hammer them in. Then I use wide masking tape around the hole on the good wood surface. This protects the wood as you use a sanding block to get down to where you nearly need to be. Then remove the tape and (carefully) sand with fine sandpaper. Occasionally you'll get lucky and the bung will fit without further work. A new coat of oil and you are good to go.
Once you get the trim off, carefully pull the headliner off the staples. You do not need to remove all it. The forward-most stanchion can be reached from the anchor locker. Two carefully selected spots on the headliner about 10" long should be plenty.
Do the next boat owner a favor: After you remove the hardware, drill over-sized holes (the stanchion outline will show in the gelcoat -- start the drill in reverse), and fill them with epoxy. This is a case where Six-10 is worth its cost. Tape the bottom of the hole closed first. Once cured, put the stanchion in place to use as a guide to locate the new holes. Be sure to chamfer the top of the hole in the epoxy so that sealant can form a wedge around the fastener where it enters the boat. Plenty of how-to-bed-hardware examples on the web.
When you tighten the hardware, screw the Don Casey advice that says come back and tighten them again after the sealant has cured. I get the principle, but he does a disservice to the world by suggesting that everyone can reliably hold a screw steady and only turn the nut.
You'll (want) a 6" #3 Phillips driver bit and (need) a #3 Phillips screwdriver and a helper. I wouldn't bother reusing the old hardware. Be sure to degrease the new hardware. Carb cleaner works great.
I do not use that technique. I drill a pilot hole in the bung for a screw, then I screw into the bung. As the screw bears on the hidden fastener underneath, it lifts the bung from the hole. The point is that the bung is consumable. If you do something like try to pry the bung from the hole, your tool marks will be there for the life of the wood. You can buy teak bungs off the internet. I do not use glue to reinstall. I just hammer them in. Then I use wide masking tape around the hole on the good wood surface. This protects the wood as you use a sanding block to get down to where you nearly need to be. Then remove the tape and (carefully) sand with fine sandpaper. Occasionally you'll get lucky and the bung will fit without further work. A new coat of oil and you are good to go.
Once you get the trim off, carefully pull the headliner off the staples. You do not need to remove all it. The forward-most stanchion can be reached from the anchor locker. Two carefully selected spots on the headliner about 10" long should be plenty.
Do the next boat owner a favor: After you remove the hardware, drill over-sized holes (the stanchion outline will show in the gelcoat -- start the drill in reverse), and fill them with epoxy. This is a case where Six-10 is worth its cost. Tape the bottom of the hole closed first. Once cured, put the stanchion in place to use as a guide to locate the new holes. Be sure to chamfer the top of the hole in the epoxy so that sealant can form a wedge around the fastener where it enters the boat. Plenty of how-to-bed-hardware examples on the web.
When you tighten the hardware, screw the Don Casey advice that says come back and tighten them again after the sealant has cured. I get the principle, but he does a disservice to the world by suggesting that everyone can reliably hold a screw steady and only turn the nut.
You'll (want) a 6" #3 Phillips driver bit and (need) a #3 Phillips screwdriver and a helper. I wouldn't bother reusing the old hardware. Be sure to degrease the new hardware. Carb cleaner works great.
I needed a less expensive hobby, so I bought a boat!