Trojan Boat Forum

El L Sea wrote: ↑Mon Mar 04, 2019 9:30 pm

topseaturvy wrote: ↑Mon Mar 04, 2019 9:00 pm So does anyone see any issues with moving the sea strainers to the front of the engines and leaving the seacocks where they are at the back of the engine room? This would mean a 1 1/4" hardwall rubber hose, same as there is from the factory now. The difference being instead of the sea strainer being about a foot from the seacock as it is now, it would be about 7 feet from the seacock to the sea strainer. I would add a ball valve in that run as close to the seacock as I could and still access it with the floors still in place, ( about 3 feet ) for servicing the engine like changing the impeller or whatever. The issue I can see is that 7 foot run of 1 1/4" hose could get clogged up over time. I could make a scheduled habit of checking that run periodically by lifting the floors and closing the seacock and removing that run for inspection. After a few years I would get a pretty good idea as to how oven that run of hose would need to be cleaned out. Granted that might alter depending if I was cruising in different waters. As it is now I believe the thru-hull has a grate on it if I remember correctly. I don't like the idea of a screen in the seacock, because that could possibly restrict flow to the raw water pump.

Do you have diesel or gas? Our boat is diesel and has external strainers that the diver cleans monthly. We do not have the type of "in the engine room" strainers on the motor that are on the genny and A/C.

Gas engines

The internal strainers normally did not come on the Trojans , so they where likely added on some point . You could remove them and put external strainers over your intakes if you don't have them all ready .

prowlersfish wrote: ↑Tue Mar 05, 2019 6:46 am The internal strainers normally did not come on the Trojans , so they where likely added on some point . You could remove them and put external strainers over your intakes if you don't have them all ready .

Really?? I have the grate on the thru-hull. Is that what you mean by an external sea strainer? That hardly seems efficient enough to me to keep all the crud in the ocean out of the raw water pump impeller.
I can't figure out how to add an image here but the part I'm referring to is dome shape with about 6-8 slits in it. But no screen,

I also have the drop in filter basket type that sits in the large bronze Groco sea strainer I believe it is a 1 1/2" ARG-1500. This sure looks factory. There is a brass band (3/4" wide) bolted to the top of the sea strainer going to the drive shaft in an arch, (about a foot away) which provides tension pushing it against the drive shafts. Attached to that strip at the shaft is a half circle piece of copper also 3/4" wide, with two contact points touching the shafts. Bonding the shaft to the rest of the bonding circuit. It all looks like it's supposed to be there.

I added these over the through-hulls. https://www.pricefalls.com/product/groc ... 7625501480

My boat came with the oval-with-slots type as you describe, but no strainers on the engines. I've never had any issues overheating, before or since adding the strainers shown in the link. Using the TLAR method, I installed the long axis of the strainers so that each points about 12 degrees toward the keel (fronts of strainers are closer together than the rear for dual engine). Why? Water doesn't just flow from bow to stern -- it flows out and away from the keel too.

topseaturvy wrote: ↑Tue Mar 05, 2019 12:51 pm
I can't figure out how to add an image here

1). Save the pic on your computer.
2). Click "attachment" tab.
3). Select file.
4). "Place inline."
Voila!

P-Dogg wrote: ↑Tue Mar 05, 2019 7:18 pm I added these over the through-hulls.
strainer.JPG
https://www.pricefalls.com/product/groc ... 7625501480

My boat came with the oval-with-slots type as you describe, but no strainers on the engines. I've never had any issues overheating, before or since adding the strainers shown in the link. Using the TLAR method, I installed the long axis of the strainers so that each points about 12 degrees toward the keel (fronts of strainers are closer together than the rear for dual engine). Why? Water doesn't just flow from bow to stern -- it flows out and away from the keel too.

So Since these screened covers attach over the existing thru-hulls, how are they bonded?

Mine are not bonded And no issues

If you want to bond them, make one of the attaching screws a machine screw that penetrates into the bilge. Apply ring terminal there.

I do not believe mine are bonded. I boat in nearly fresh water. If i can remember ill report back after sprung haul out.

About the placement of the seacocks. I can appreciate that it may be important that they are where they are because it was the optimal position for them to be, in regards to the flow of water as the boat is motoring along, particularly when the pedal is to the metal and a good portion of the hull may be out of the water.
However the seacock for the genset and the seacock for the reverse cycle heating/air conditioning, are positioned between the stringers about a foot either side of the keel line. They are positioned at the fwd end of the engine room so about a foot in front of the engines. Basically right about where I was considering repositioning the engine seacocks, as far as the forward positioning of them is concerned. Another interesting note about those seacocks is that in that area, it appears to be solid fibreglass. That is to say the seacocks are not in a recessed area like the engine seacocks are. But it's hard to tell since the stringers separate this area from the rest of the bottom hull.
Also the hull in the forward section of the boat, like lets say 10-12 feet from the bow waterline going aft, there is no coring. It's all fibreglass. So I'm guessing the coring starts somewhere around the galley or perhaps the head area. Is the idea of coring to give the hull more strength when being pounded by the waves?

Coring stiffens up the hull while using less glass big weight savings and $$$

Hi, All! My first post here. I am replacing all of my thru-hulls on my 1982 F-32. The existing thru-hulls are a slotted clam shell type. Additionally, these are covered with the wedge shape screen as pictured above.

My question is should I keep the slotted thru-hull or can I replace them with a standard round open type. I will be reinstalling the wedge screens over the new thru-hulls. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Here is a picture of what I have. It seems like overkill to have both types of strainers. I will definitely keep the wedge screen strainers, not sure about the slotted strainers. Any thoughts?

No harm in leaving the slotted ones in .