Trojan Boat Forum

I had the boat 11-12 years and it was propped right when I got it . the hour meters had very low hours on them . Rumor had it they where rebuilt before installed ( owner passed away )but that's not fact the could have been new hour meters on high or low hour take outs that where installed . Honestly hours most likely are not relevant on the cause of failure . Engine show no sighs of wear or age . I would bet it would have past any engine survey the day before .

If I was rebuilding or putting in a long block I would be very concerned of the failure cause so if would not repeat . But as I reusing very few parts I am not very concerned at this time . But I am checking a few boat related possibilities like water in fuel taking out a injector or something on the shaft causeing a bind making the engine go to full fuel/over load.

I may long block the old engine . And at that time I will know the cause

Sea trial I am happy to report was a 100% success . Now its time to go cruising !

And start tearing apart the old engine

prowlersfish wrote:Sea trial I am happy to report was a 100% success . Now its time to go cruising !

And start tearing apart the old engine

Yabba,Dabba, Doooo.. ..good stuff....let us know how that rod looks when you get it apart.....

prowlersfish wrote:Sea trial I am happy to report was a 100% success .

Glad to hear it!

mikeandanne wrote:
Yabba,Dabba, Doooo.. ..good stuff....let us know how that rod looks when you get it apart.....

Its broken at the wrist pin and in several pieces . the lower half is still on the crank . No need to take it apart for that due to the new large inspection hole and the parts I found in the bilge LOL

Wow, is all I can say.

Fast turnaround for sure.

Glad you're back running, Prowler.

Rick

Thanks for all the good wishes !

glad to hear you are back on the water again.

This problem was not like a bad component failure ie water pump, alternator, starter, injection pump, etc.

The question I have is:

How do you prevent this from happening with the other engine, or the replacement engine?

RWS

RWS wrote:glad to hear you are back on the water again.

This problem was not like a bad component failure ie water pump, alternator, starter, injection pump, etc.

The question I have is:

How do you prevent this from happening with the other engine, or the replacement engine?

RWS

Not much you can do . There is no external cause of the engine failure . Something cause # piston to lock up causing the rod to bend a break I believe . #5 piston is at the bottom of the bore . ( I can see it from the hole in the block with my bore scope ) . Possible causes , injector failure causinig a hydro lock ( or injection pump), coolant from the freeze plug that blew out . No coolant/water was found in after cooler when I pulled the plug so I am not thing this is the likely cause . Piston seized from possible lose of coolant is possible . Until I tear it down I will not know .

Bottom line is it was a internal failure or a failure on bolt on component . Not a install or propping issue . So there is not much that can be done to prevent this from happing to the other engine(s) . Its just one of those things that happens . Now if I just put a long block in and bolted on all these parts then I would Have some thing to worry about , but I did not . The cause is contented in or on the engine that is remove . I am 100% confident in that .

Geez Paul, sorry to hear, not the kind of thing anyone wants to happen. Glad you are back up so quickly, I'd still be scrubbing oil out of the bilge !

The possible cause may be a forever mystery - but one thing for sure, it's an engine - diesel or not, they do fail from time to time, in fact, with the new emission compliant diesels, we have far more failures with diesels than gas by a very large margin.

Nice to see you got the boat back up and running before the summer !
Cheers!!

I was thinking about this last night and I remembered that we had a series of trucks with Cummins engines, I believe they were 04's 05's or 06 engines in the 300 hp range,. Anyway, these engines developed a cooling system issue in that if the coolant wasn't properly maintained at the correct PH and anti corrosion additive levels maintained, the cylinder walls or sleeves would have a tendency to corrode through and the engine would hydro-lock and then implode.

just a thought

Yanmar requires a coolant change once a year.

They are also VERY PICKY about the specifications.

I do mine every two, and use distilled water for the 50/50 mix.

Lightweight aluminum is GREAT, however there is a much higher degree of strict preventative maintenance with these engines than those of yesteryear.

I am quite happy with mine, as they are US EPA tier one, and have zero electronics to worry with or fail.

RWS

The Cummins B is not picky on coolant being a parent bore engine ( not sleeved ) . Sleeved engines are . Yanmar is very sensitive to its coolant . But regardless I kept up on it .

Well after a short sea trial last week and some much longer runs this weekend , I can report success .


A failure report on the old engine will be forth coming in the next few weeks . I am pretty sure what happened now but a tear down will confirm . I am also doing some updates on the other old engine . thankfully all the $$$ ones have been done