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Engine issue
Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 7:41 pm
by Boppy
Coming back today the ol’ Blue Heron decided to konk out on me. I noticed hard starting before we left the dock, but no problem getting out. On the way back I was cruising slowly at 1500 - 1800 RPM (Single 1977 Chrysler 318 w/4bbl carb) and the RPMs started to decrease and finally the engine quit.. I got it started and the only way to keep it going was to continually pump the throttle back and forth. Got it back to the dock but it was not fun. Later I was able to start it back up and run it a while in neutral, engine hatch open. It I “goosed” the throttle it would hesitate a bit and then kick in. I run non-ethanol gas in it, but the tank has last year’s gas.. I noticed that the secondary doesn’t seem to open when I got to WOT or near WOT. Thinking about: 1. Glogged fuel line and/or filter, 2. Fuel pump going south, 3. Carb needs cleaning/maybe rebuild. Anything else you think I’m missing? Could use some extra minds on this one. Thank!!
Re: Engine issue
Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 10:00 pm
by prowlersfish
Start with checking the fuel filter(s) and see what's in them
Re: Engine issue
Posted: Sat Aug 08, 2020 10:20 pm
by Boppy
Will do. Gonna narrow it down this week. Thanks.
Re: Engine issue
Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2020 8:03 am
by kallen
Start with the anti-siphon valve. You are going to have to check it at some point. It is the first thing in the fuel line to clog up.Then check the fuel filters and replace them since the filters are off. Hopefully you carry spares. There is a flexible fuel hose between the fuel line and the fuel pump. I did have a hose collapse cutting the flow of fuel to the carb.I replaced the 12" hose with the proper hose with the correct fittings crimped on. Then the fuel pump volume and pressure. Then see if there is a fuel filter between the fuel pump and the carb. Once again carry spares and DONT use a plastic fuel filter. Then see if there is a small filter inside the carb where the fuel line connects to the carb. Did you use fuel stabilizer when storing the boat for the winter. If you are not comfortable doing this work get a mechanic.
Re: Engine issue
Posted: Sun Aug 09, 2020 9:02 am
by Boppy
Thanks, Kallen. All good advice. Already called my mechanic but he’ll be busy this week or next so I’ll have time to see if I can fix the issue myself.
Re: Engine issue
Posted: Thu Aug 13, 2020 3:33 pm
by Boppy
Got up to the boat today. Removed and replaced the water filter from the gas line. Rust colored and some crud on top. Filter had not been changed since 6/19. Cleaned air filter/flame arrestor and carb. Ran engine after replacing filter and it bogged down, stalled and then came back to life and ran fine (in neutral, 1000, 2000, 3000 rpm). Shut her down and removed new filter. Gas looks clean and clear, no water. I filled 50 gal tank last year with non-e gas and it ran fine all last year. Pics attached of filter results. I don’t THINK that layer on top is gas and the one on the bottom is water......if it is then I’ve developed a new fuel based on 90% water...... Comments? Ideas? Thanks!
Re: Engine issue
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2020 9:13 pm
by Boppy
Well, duh.... That picture I shared of the light yellow gas sample? Yup, that big bottom layer is WATER. Gonna have tank drained of as much water as possible and then BUY A NEW FILLER CAP O RING! Gas is non ethanol but not impervious to water coming into the tank during rain storms from a filler cap with a shot o ring. Cheap part. Expensive lesson learned

Re: Engine issue
Posted: Fri Aug 14, 2020 9:41 pm
by prowlersfish
I left my cap off , 1 week later I had to pump out 20 gals of water from the bottom of the tank .
Re: Engine issue
Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2020 5:54 am
by RWS
same "O" ring is on your fresh water tank deck fitting
good idea to change these every few years
good example of where a .25 cent part can cause lots of grief and expense
RWS
Re: Engine issue
Posted: Sat Aug 15, 2020 5:51 pm
by kallen
OK heres what I did when I put a gallon of water in the gas tank. Did not run engine. Removed the fuel gauge sender unit. Bought some fuel water paste from a auto store. Gas stations use this paste when they dip there under ground tanks.Applied the paste to a thin stick and dipped it in the fuel tank. The paste changes color if water is present. Saw how much water was in the tank. Used a manual oil change pump to suck out the water and crud in the bottom of the tank. You do not have to drain the tank as water sits on the bottom. Tested with the paste again. Added water absorber. Changed the fuel water separator after a short run. Dumped the separator fuel into a jar.No water. Reinstalled the filter. Changed the filter in the fall. The fuel pick up tube is always raised a couple of inches off the bottom so as to not suck up water or crud. A bore scope camera comes in very handy when inspecting the inside of the tank.
Re: Engine issue
Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2020 9:30 am
by Goran
Boppy ,
I am glad you find/ fix the problem

Just this spring I replaced O ring , every year put some Vaseline for winter storage
Re: Engine issue
Posted: Sun Aug 16, 2020 12:30 pm
by Boppy
Thanks all for advice. Just put a new o ring on gas and waste caps. Going to have my marina handle the tank pump out, etc. next week. Total cost for o rings $2. To prepare myself for the next cost I shall now hit my forehead with a brick several times.....
Re: Engine issue
Posted: Fri Aug 21, 2020 4:56 pm
by Boppy
Anddddd....drum roll please.......cost for marina to pump out old water logged gas, install new sender because old one was shot, refill tank with fresh gas and sea trial.......$659.00.......Very expensive lesson for me to learn about making sure there’s a good o ring to seal my gas cap. Just in time for me to get ready for haul out in a couple of weeks since our lake is man made and is used to regulate the level of the Hudson River for flood control and to keep the salt level from migrating to far upriver to mess up Poughkeepsie’s drinking water supply......damned flat-landers and their stupid need for drinking water.....SOOOOO glad 2020 will be over!!