enigne performance
Moderators: BeaconMarineBob, Moderator, BeaconMarineDon
enigne performance
this seems to be a carb issue and may be.... runs greats at idle in usual forward motion. Runs great at high end untill you trottle back. Soon as you trottle back to stop or slow down.... she chokes and or dies. Only ways to keep her going is to restart and or baby the trottle untill the engine has cooled down. The typical 3 turns out on the idle screw doesnt help. Carb has an electronic choke. Maybe the choke box needs replaced? Still doesnt seem to make sence. Carb is fresh rebuild minus the choke. gas all new. filters new. fuel system new all togather..... any possibility the intake manifold has cracked? thanks for replies, its not super important just one of those cuold be, maybe issues....
- RWS
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Jeff,
Sounds like a needle valve/seat/float problem
Could be a simple adjustment or worn part(s)
RWS
Sounds like a needle valve/seat/float problem
Could be a simple adjustment or worn part(s)
RWS
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
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Seems if intake cracked would be a vacuum leak and engine would backfire when accelleration tried.
I would start my idle screws starting at 1.5 turns out from bottom and work from there. You are on the right track it seems to me to be a carbureting issue.
The choke even when electically disengaged can be manually adjusted to tich or lean. Once engine warm no chocke should be needed.
I would start my idle screws starting at 1.5 turns out from bottom and work from there. You are on the right track it seems to me to be a carbureting issue.
The choke even when electically disengaged can be manually adjusted to tich or lean. Once engine warm no chocke should be needed.
Last edited by larryeddington on Thu Nov 29, 2012 9:26 pm, edited 2 times in total.
Larry Eddington
1984 F-36 Tri Cabin "The Phoenix II"
1978 F-28 "The Phoenix"
Fish Master 2350 Bay Boat
9.5' Dink
1984 F-36 Tri Cabin "The Phoenix II"
1978 F-28 "The Phoenix"
Fish Master 2350 Bay Boat
9.5' Dink
- RWS
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- Joined: Sat Feb 18, 2006 7:01 am
- Location: West Coast Florida
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Jeff,
A vacuum guage would be a valuable diagnostic tool in this case.
RWS
A vacuum guage would be a valuable diagnostic tool in this case.
RWS
1983 10 Meter SOLD after 21 years of adventures
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
Yanmar diesels
Solid Glass Hull
Woodless Stringers
Full Hull Liner
Survived Andrew Cat 5,Eye of Charley Cat 4, & Irma Cat 2
Trojan International Website: http://trojanboat.com/
WEBSITE & SITELOCK TOTALLY SELF FUNDED
- guglielmo6160
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sounds like a fuel delivery issue,
start with the basics, work your way to complex stuff. from what your describing sounds like fuel cutoff, feathering the throttle is a sure indicator of that. I know its a pain in the ass, but try running that engine with a seperate fuel source and an electric pump to see if the problem is the same, then you can rule out a pump and fuel delivery issue
start with the basics, work your way to complex stuff. from what your describing sounds like fuel cutoff, feathering the throttle is a sure indicator of that. I know its a pain in the ass, but try running that engine with a seperate fuel source and an electric pump to see if the problem is the same, then you can rule out a pump and fuel delivery issue
1983 10 meter express
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